Sunday, November 27, 2011
Chinese Rose Flower Article
So you are tired of searching for information on rose gardening? Don�t fret because your search ends here with this article. 62) It would be difficult to think of life without rose gardening. They play an important part in some place or the other of our livesIt would be difficult to think of life without rose gardening. They play an important part in some place or the other of our lives Preparing for the end of season There is a lot of jargon connected with rose gardening. However, we have eliminated the difficult ones, and only used the ones understood by everyone. Ignorance is bliss, is it? Isn�t it better to learn more than not to know about something like rose gardening. So we have produced this article so that you can learn more about it! Go ahead and read this article on rose gardening. We would also appreciate it if you could give us an analysis on it for us to make any needed changes to it. The months of November and December can be an awkward time for many rosarians. While the growing season is coming to and end, the winter hibernation season has not yet begun. Some of us just don't know what to do with ourselves or our rose bushes during this period of time. Because your bushes are not yet in hibernation they still require some attention from you. Water continues to be a prime need, so make sure that the soil around their roots continues to remain moist. Give them a good soaking as need be, but, as always, don't over-water. Water is an important part of your roses' winter survival requirements and properly hydrated roots will help them stay protected when the cold weather arrives. Stop all pruning and deadheading activity so you do not encourage new growth. You should have stopped applying organics last month, and you don't want to apply any more fertilizer now either. Your goal is to keep your roses healthy while, at the same time, encouraging them to begin the process of going into dormancy. Continue spraying at least once each month to combat black spot. Spider mites are still active during late autumn so keep your eye out for them. Spritz your blooms and foliage with water whenever you see signs of infestation. Aphids are also active now, so have a bottle of soapy water ready to send them packing. Pick off any diseased leaves and rake away any fallen leaves from your rose beds. This not only improves the appearance of your garden, it also removes any disease residue which may be still on the leaves. This is also a good time to prepare your new rose holes and rose beds for next year's growing season. They will have time to "mellow" over the winter season and will be ready to accept new bushes in spring. Begin the process of piling mulch around your more delicate varieties such as "St. Patrick", "Color Magic", "Oklahoma" and "Signature". Your hardier varieties can wait until next month. See our "Winter Gardening" article for mulching tips. rose gardening play a prominent part in this composition. It is with this prominence that we hope people get to know more about rose gardening. You may say that we have included exquisite information here on rose gardening. This is with the intention of producing a unique article on rose gardening. You worked hard all season to keep your roses healthy and beautiful. If you did everything right, you were probably rewarded with waves and waves of beautiful blooms. Your hard work is almost over for the year, but don't neglect your roses during these important final months. 97) We have been very thorough in providing as much information on rose gardening as possible in this article. Please use it to make our efforts fruitful.We have been very thorough in providing as much information on rose gardening as possible in this article. Please use it to make our efforts fruitful.
Saturday, November 26, 2011
Rocky Mountain Rose Favorites
Some of my favorites are what I call my garden “eye-catchers.” Their rich colors set against their beautiful, shiny, green foliage are truly a sight to behold. Now, as a rose lover for more than 40 years, I have to admit that my list of favorites is long and varying (after all, each variety is unique in its own way). But here’s a list of my top five eye-catchers, as well as a few extra-special delights. While I treasure each of these beauties in my own garden in the Rockies, many will do well in other parts of the country, too. So be sure to check with your local garden center or Extension office to see if these gorgeous bloomers are candidates for a special spot in your garden as well.
Tuscan Sun
(floribunda)
Featuring orange- to peach-toned blooms, this very hardy rose grabs your attention with her bright rich flower color and form set against rich, medium-green foliage. And you’ll find she’s got a very light citrus fragrance. In my Colorado climate, I allow about a 2-foot-square space for this beauty.
Saturday, September 24, 2011
The President's Garden
Prior to 1902, there were extensive stables, housing horses and coaches, located on the grounds of the present-day Oval Office, Cabinet Room, and Rose Garden. During the 1902 Roosevelt renovation, First Lady Edith Rooseelt insisted on a proper colonial garden to help replace the conservatory rose house that had stood here.
The Rose Garden is based on a traditional 18th century American garden. The current design of the garden dates to the Kennedy Administration. President and Mrs. Kennedy were interested in having horticultural features that followed the traditions of Presidents Washington and Jefferson. The West Garden has been called the Rose Garden since 1913 when Mrs. Ellen Wilson replaced the existing colonial garden with a formal rose garden.
The Rose Garden features a rectangular grass panel surrounded by flower beds and crabapple trees. The garden is steps from the Oval Office and is the stage for numerous receptions, bill signings and media events annually.
More than 30 different types of tulips and grape hyacinth are planted in the flower beds that are framed and crisscrossed with boxwood. Lavender cotton, planted in the shape of diamonds, surrounds the crabapple trees.
The Rose Garden was once a formal flower garden, but it was eventually converted to a broad lawn surrounded by flower and shrub plantings so that presidents could hold press conferences out in the sunny, open area with the West Wing colonnade as a backdrop.
More Images
[Rose Garden]
Saturday, September 3, 2011
Ornamental plants
Main article: Garden roses
The majority of ornamental roses are hybrids that were bred for their flowers. A few, mostly species roses are grown for attractive or scented foliage (such as Rosa glauca and Rosa rubiginosa), ornamental thorns (such as Rosa sericea) or for their showy fruit (such as Rosa moyesii).
Hybrid Tea cultivar 'Mrs. Herbert Stevens'
Ornamental roses have been cultivated for millennia, with the earliest known cultivation known to date from at least 500 BC in Mediterranean countries, Persia, and China.[5] Many thousands of rose hybrids and cultivars have been bred and selected for garden use as flowering plants. Most are double-flowered with many or all of the stamens having mutated into additional petals.
In the early 19th century the Empress Josephine of France patronized the development of rose breeding at her gardens at Malmaison. As long ago as 1840 a collection numbering over one thousand different cultivars, varieties and species was possible when a rosarium was planted by Loddiges nursery for Abney Park Cemetery, an early Victorian garden cemetery and arboretum in England.
A few species and hybrids are grown for non-floral ornamental use. Among these are those grown for prominent hips, such as the flagon shaped hips of Rosa moyesii. Sometimes even the thorns can be treated as an attraction or curiosity, such as with Rosa sericea.
Cut flowers
Bouquet of pink roses
Roses are a popular crop for both domestic and commercial cut flowers. Generally they are harvested and cut when in bud, and held in refrigerated conditions until ready for display at their point of sale.
In temperate climates, cut roses are often grown in glasshouses, and in warmer countries they may also be grown under cover in order to ensure that the flowers are not damaged by weather and that pests and disease control can be carried out effectively. Significant quantities are grown in some tropical countries, and these are shipped by air to markets across the world.[6]
Perfume
Main articles: Rose oil, Attar of roses, and Rose water
Rose perfumes are made from attar of roses or rose oil, which is a mixture of volatile essential oils obtained by steam distilling the crushed petals of roses. An associated product is rose water which is used for cooking, cosmetics, medicine and in religious practices. The production technique originated in Persia then spread through Arabia and India, and more recently into eastern Europe. In Bulgaria, Iran and Germany, damask roses (Rosa damascena 'Trigintipetala') are used. In other parts of the world Rosa centifolia is commonly used. The oil is transparent pale yellow or yellow-grey in colour. 'Rose Absolute' is solvent-extracted with hexane and produces a darker oil, dark yellow to orange in colour. The weight of oil extracted is about one three-thousandth to one six-thousandth of the weight of the flowers; for example, about two thousand flowers are required to produce one gram of oil.
Geraniol (C10H18O)
The main constituents of attar of roses are the fragrant alcohols geraniol and l-citronellol; and rose camphor, an odourless paraffin. β-Damascenone is also a significant contributor to the scent.
Rose water, made as a byproduct of rose oil production, is widely used in Asian and Middle Eastern cuisine. In France there is much use of rose syrup, most commonly made from an extract of rose petals. In the United States, this French rose syrup is used to make rose scones and marshmallows.
Rose hips
The rose hip, the fruit of some species, is used as a minor source of Vitamin C.
Rosa canina hips
Rose hips are occasionally made into jam, jelly, and marmalade, or are brewed for tea, primarily for their high vitamin C content. They are also pressed and filtered to make rose hip syrup. Rose hips are also used to produce Rose hip seed oil, which is used in skin products and some makeup products.
Medicine
The fruits of many species have significant levels of vitamins and have been used as a food supplement (see previous section). Many roses have been used in herbal and folk medicines. Rosa chinensis has long been used in Chinese traditional medicine. This and other species have been used for stomach problems, and are being investigated for controlling cancer growth.[7]
Culture
Art
Roses are a favored subject in art and therefore used in various artistic disciplines. They appear in portraits, illustrations, on stamps, as ornaments or as architectural elements. The Luxembourg born Belgian artist and botanist Pierre-Joseph Redouté is known for his detailed watercolours of flowers, particularly roses.
Renoir's painting of cabbage roses, Roses in a vase
Henri Fantin-Latour was also a prolific painter of still life, particularly flowers including roses. The Rose 'Fantin-Latour' was named after the artist.
Other impressionists including Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne and Pierre-Auguste Renoir have paintings of roses among their works.
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
ROSE
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaJump to: navigation, search
For other uses, see Rose (disambiguation).
A rose is a woody perennial of the genus Rosa, within the family Rosaceae. There are over 100 species. They form a group of erect shrubs, and climbing or trailing plants, with stems that are often armed with sharp prickles. Flowers are large and showy, in colours ranging from white through yellows and reds. Most species are native to Asia, with smaller numbers native to Europe, North America, and northwest Africa. Species, cultivars and hybrids are all widely grown for their beauty and fragrance. Rose plants range in size from compact, miniature roses, to climbers that can reach 7 meters in height. Different species hybridize easily, and this has been used in the development of the wide range of garden roses.[1]
The name rose comes from French, itself from Latin rosa, which was perhaps borrowed from Oscan, from Greek ρόδον rhodon (Aeolic βρόδον wrodon), related to Old Persian wrd-, Avestan varəda, Sogdian ward, Parthian wâr, Armenian vard.
For other uses, see Rose (disambiguation).
A rose is a woody perennial of the genus Rosa, within the family Rosaceae. There are over 100 species. They form a group of erect shrubs, and climbing or trailing plants, with stems that are often armed with sharp prickles. Flowers are large and showy, in colours ranging from white through yellows and reds. Most species are native to Asia, with smaller numbers native to Europe, North America, and northwest Africa. Species, cultivars and hybrids are all widely grown for their beauty and fragrance. Rose plants range in size from compact, miniature roses, to climbers that can reach 7 meters in height. Different species hybridize easily, and this has been used in the development of the wide range of garden roses.[1]
The name rose comes from French, itself from Latin rosa, which was perhaps borrowed from Oscan, from Greek ρόδον rhodon (Aeolic βρόδον wrodon), related to Old Persian wrd-, Avestan varəda, Sogdian ward, Parthian wâr, Armenian vard.
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Rose Garden (arena)
Rose Garden, commonly known as the The Rose Garden Arena, is the primary indoor sports arena in Portland, Oregon, United States. It is suitable for large indoor events of all sorts, including basketball, ice hockey, rodeos, circuses, conventions, ice shows, concerts, and dramatic productions. The arena has a capacity of 19,980 spectators when configured for basketball; it holds smaller crowds when configured for other events. The arena is equipped with state-of-the-art acoustics and other amenities.[2]
It is owned by Vulcan Inc., a holding company owned by Paul Allen, and is currently managed by Anschutz Entertainment Group and AEG Live. The primary tenant is the Portland Trail Blazers NBA franchise, also owned by Allen. The other major tenant of the building today is the major junior hockey franchise Portland Winterhawks of the Western Hockey League, which splits its schedule with the Memorial Coliseum next door. In addition to the Blazers and Winterhawks, several other professional sports franchises, and the Portland State University men's basketball team, either currently play home games in the Rose Garden, or have done so in the past. In addition, the Rose Garden is a popular venue for concerts and other artistic productions.[3]
Construction on the Rose Garden began in 1993, and the arena opened on October 12, 1995. The arena cost US$262 million to build; construction was financed with funds obtained by a variety of sources, including the City of Portland, Allen's personal fortune, and $155 million in bonds issued by a consortium of mutual funds and insurance companies.[4] These bonds would become the subject of an acrimonious 2004 bankruptcy in which the Oregon Arena Corporation, the holding company which owned the arena at the time, would forfeit title to the Rose Garden in lieu of repaying the bonds per the payment terms.[5] Allen would later repurchase the arena from the creditors in 2007.[6]
Description
For more details on transportation and parking, see Rose Quarter#Transportation and parking.
The Rose Garden is a multipurpose arena which is suitable for numerous indoor sports, including basketball, ice hockey, arena football, and lacrosse, as well as for hosting other events such as concerts, conventions, and circuses.[2] The arena is located in a sports and entertainment district known as the Rose Quarter, a parcel of land in inner northeast Portland which also includes the Memorial Coliseum arena, as well as several parking structures, restaurants, and other amenities.
[edit] Name
The official name of the facility is "Rose Garden"; though the arena is commonly known as the "Rose Garden Arena" to disambiguate it from the International Rose Test Garden, also located in Portland. The name was chosen both to reflect Portland's reputation as the Rose City,[7] and to reflect the importance to basketball heritage of Boston Garden and Madison Square Garden arenas in Boston and New York City, respectively. When the name was selected, the remainder of the former Coliseum grounds were given the name "Rose Quarter".
On December 12, 2007, the Trail Blazers and Vulcan announced that they were seeking a corporate partner to grant naming rights for the facility, with the goal of a new name being available for the Blazers' 2008–09 season.[8] Until then, the Rose Garden remains one of only a handful of NBA facilities for which naming rights have not been sold.[9] Currently, corporate sponsorship is offered on four "media totems" at each of the facility's main entrances.[7]
[edit] Structure and architecture
The Rose Garden is a precast concrete-framed structure with a roof made up of skeletal steel. The arena structure encloses a total of over 785,000 square feet (72,900 m2), on eight levels, five of which are open to the public. The building is 140 feet (43 m), from the event floor to the pinnacle of the saddle-shaped roof.[2] The arena includes a 60 by 40 feet (18 × 12 m) permanent stage, and a 200 by 85 feet (61 × 26 m) ice rink.[10]
The building is composed of over 48,000 cubic yards (37,000 m3) of concrete, and over 9,700 short tons (8,800 t) of steel. The exterior is composed of over 29,000 square feet (2,700 m2) of glass, 17,500 square feet (1,630 m2) of plaster, 52,000 square feet (4,800 m2) of architectural precast, 39,000 square feet (3,600 m2) of insulation, and 13,654 square feet (1,268.5 m2) of steel louvres.[2][11]
The building, designed by architecture firm Ellerbe Becket, has been criticized by some in Portland's architectural community. A survey of local architects and planners was conducted by the Portland Tribune, and subsequently the Rose Garden was listed among the five ugliest buildings in the city.[12]
[edit] Seating
Inside of Rose Garden Arena, circa 2001
The arena has a total of over 14,000 permanent seats arranged in two bowls. An additional 1540 permanent seats are found in the arena's 70 skyboxes. Over 4200 portable seats may or may not be installed, depending on the arena's configuration.[10] When configured for basketball, the arena has a capacity of 19,980, and can accommodate a total of up to 20,580 patrons with standing room. Prior to the 1998 NBA season the capacity was reduced to 19,980 from the original 21,400 spectators.[13] When configured for hockey or lacrosse, capacity decreases to 17,544. The arena supports numerous other configurations for events such as concerts, monster trucks, and circuses.[2] The seating below the suites, known as the lower bowl, is further divided into the 100 and 200 levels. The upper bowl seats, above the suites, are the 300 level.[2]
[edit] Skyboxes and suites
The arena features 70 skyboxes, each with a seating capacity of 22 guests. Skyboxes include amenities such as a wet bar, catering, a private restroom, multiple television monitors, and a sound system.[2] Skyboxes may be rented on a yearly[14] or single-event[15] basis; yearly renters of skyboxes are given access to all Rose Garden events. The arena also features modular party suites, which can be configured either as a pair of 44-person Super Suites, or as one 88-person mega suite.[16]
[edit] Theater of the Clouds
For smaller, more intimate events, the Rose Garden can be placed into a configuration known as the "Theater of the Clouds". This configuration, part of a trend of large arenas having smaller theater configurations,[17] places the stage at center court, and utilizes the western side of the arena.[18] Custom floor-to-ceiling theater curtains are draped at the edges of the seating area, creating a more intimate setting. As of 2004, on average 10 events per year have been held in the Theater of the Clouds configuration.[19] The Theater of the Clouds configuration seats 6,500; with 16 of the 70 luxury boxes being usable.[20]
[edit] Amenities
Two concourses, the 100 level and the 300 level, are open to the ticket-buying public during events; the 100 level concourse provides access to the lower bowl (including the 200-level seats); the 300-level concourse provides access to the upper bowl. A third concourse, the 200 level, provides access to guest services such as a sports bar, a barbecue grill, an executive banquet facility, and several outdoor terraces, including two which permit smoking. A fourth concourse, known as Suite Level, provides access to the skyboxes and is restricted to patrons who have skybox admission. All concourses provide a variety of concession stands. The arena also features 32 public restrooms; women's toilets outnumber men's toilets 3 to 1.[2] There are wi-fi hotspots throughout the arena.[16] The concourses are decorated with historical memorabilia.[21]
The primary scoreboard is a Mitsubishi-manufactured high definition video scoreboard. This scoreboard, which hangs from the ceiling over center court, features four 15 feet by 22.5 feet (4.5 m by 6.75 m) video screens, among the biggest in the NBA.[16] The arena also features over 650 television monitors placed throughout,[2] showing the action on court. Auxiliary scoreboards located both in the arena itself and the concourses provide statistical information, including "hustle" statistics for basketball (rebounds, blocked shots, and steals). Three media towers, one at each main entrance, provide video of other games in the NBA.[21]
[edit] Acoustics
A unique feature found in no other multi-purpose arena what is known as the "acoustical cloud". The acoustical cloud is a set of 160 rotating acoustic panels suspended from the Rose Garden ceiling, and were intended to recreate the roar of noise that made the old Memorial Coliseum one of the loudest buildings in the NBA. One side of each 10 feet by 10 feet (3 m by 3 m) panel reflects sound, while the other side absorbs sound. Each panel is shaped like an airplane wing, and is 8 inches (20 cm) thick at the center and 4 inches (10 cm) thick at the edges. The effect during Blazers games is to absorb the noise from the upper levels and reflect it back down to the court.
The panels permit the acoustics of the arena to be adjusted according to the requirements of the event. For smaller events in which only the lower bowl of the arena is used, the panels can be lowered to further improve the sound and increase the intimacy of the arena. The acoustical cloud cost US$2 million to design and install.[22] The arena is also equipped with a JBL sound system.[16] The acoustics of the Rose Garden have been widely praised compared to similar venues.[19]
It is owned by Vulcan Inc., a holding company owned by Paul Allen, and is currently managed by Anschutz Entertainment Group and AEG Live. The primary tenant is the Portland Trail Blazers NBA franchise, also owned by Allen. The other major tenant of the building today is the major junior hockey franchise Portland Winterhawks of the Western Hockey League, which splits its schedule with the Memorial Coliseum next door. In addition to the Blazers and Winterhawks, several other professional sports franchises, and the Portland State University men's basketball team, either currently play home games in the Rose Garden, or have done so in the past. In addition, the Rose Garden is a popular venue for concerts and other artistic productions.[3]
Construction on the Rose Garden began in 1993, and the arena opened on October 12, 1995. The arena cost US$262 million to build; construction was financed with funds obtained by a variety of sources, including the City of Portland, Allen's personal fortune, and $155 million in bonds issued by a consortium of mutual funds and insurance companies.[4] These bonds would become the subject of an acrimonious 2004 bankruptcy in which the Oregon Arena Corporation, the holding company which owned the arena at the time, would forfeit title to the Rose Garden in lieu of repaying the bonds per the payment terms.[5] Allen would later repurchase the arena from the creditors in 2007.[6]
Description
For more details on transportation and parking, see Rose Quarter#Transportation and parking.
The Rose Garden is a multipurpose arena which is suitable for numerous indoor sports, including basketball, ice hockey, arena football, and lacrosse, as well as for hosting other events such as concerts, conventions, and circuses.[2] The arena is located in a sports and entertainment district known as the Rose Quarter, a parcel of land in inner northeast Portland which also includes the Memorial Coliseum arena, as well as several parking structures, restaurants, and other amenities.
[edit] Name
The official name of the facility is "Rose Garden"; though the arena is commonly known as the "Rose Garden Arena" to disambiguate it from the International Rose Test Garden, also located in Portland. The name was chosen both to reflect Portland's reputation as the Rose City,[7] and to reflect the importance to basketball heritage of Boston Garden and Madison Square Garden arenas in Boston and New York City, respectively. When the name was selected, the remainder of the former Coliseum grounds were given the name "Rose Quarter".
On December 12, 2007, the Trail Blazers and Vulcan announced that they were seeking a corporate partner to grant naming rights for the facility, with the goal of a new name being available for the Blazers' 2008–09 season.[8] Until then, the Rose Garden remains one of only a handful of NBA facilities for which naming rights have not been sold.[9] Currently, corporate sponsorship is offered on four "media totems" at each of the facility's main entrances.[7]
[edit] Structure and architecture
The Rose Garden is a precast concrete-framed structure with a roof made up of skeletal steel. The arena structure encloses a total of over 785,000 square feet (72,900 m2), on eight levels, five of which are open to the public. The building is 140 feet (43 m), from the event floor to the pinnacle of the saddle-shaped roof.[2] The arena includes a 60 by 40 feet (18 × 12 m) permanent stage, and a 200 by 85 feet (61 × 26 m) ice rink.[10]
The building is composed of over 48,000 cubic yards (37,000 m3) of concrete, and over 9,700 short tons (8,800 t) of steel. The exterior is composed of over 29,000 square feet (2,700 m2) of glass, 17,500 square feet (1,630 m2) of plaster, 52,000 square feet (4,800 m2) of architectural precast, 39,000 square feet (3,600 m2) of insulation, and 13,654 square feet (1,268.5 m2) of steel louvres.[2][11]
The building, designed by architecture firm Ellerbe Becket, has been criticized by some in Portland's architectural community. A survey of local architects and planners was conducted by the Portland Tribune, and subsequently the Rose Garden was listed among the five ugliest buildings in the city.[12]
[edit] Seating
Inside of Rose Garden Arena, circa 2001
The arena has a total of over 14,000 permanent seats arranged in two bowls. An additional 1540 permanent seats are found in the arena's 70 skyboxes. Over 4200 portable seats may or may not be installed, depending on the arena's configuration.[10] When configured for basketball, the arena has a capacity of 19,980, and can accommodate a total of up to 20,580 patrons with standing room. Prior to the 1998 NBA season the capacity was reduced to 19,980 from the original 21,400 spectators.[13] When configured for hockey or lacrosse, capacity decreases to 17,544. The arena supports numerous other configurations for events such as concerts, monster trucks, and circuses.[2] The seating below the suites, known as the lower bowl, is further divided into the 100 and 200 levels. The upper bowl seats, above the suites, are the 300 level.[2]
[edit] Skyboxes and suites
The arena features 70 skyboxes, each with a seating capacity of 22 guests. Skyboxes include amenities such as a wet bar, catering, a private restroom, multiple television monitors, and a sound system.[2] Skyboxes may be rented on a yearly[14] or single-event[15] basis; yearly renters of skyboxes are given access to all Rose Garden events. The arena also features modular party suites, which can be configured either as a pair of 44-person Super Suites, or as one 88-person mega suite.[16]
[edit] Theater of the Clouds
For smaller, more intimate events, the Rose Garden can be placed into a configuration known as the "Theater of the Clouds". This configuration, part of a trend of large arenas having smaller theater configurations,[17] places the stage at center court, and utilizes the western side of the arena.[18] Custom floor-to-ceiling theater curtains are draped at the edges of the seating area, creating a more intimate setting. As of 2004, on average 10 events per year have been held in the Theater of the Clouds configuration.[19] The Theater of the Clouds configuration seats 6,500; with 16 of the 70 luxury boxes being usable.[20]
[edit] Amenities
Two concourses, the 100 level and the 300 level, are open to the ticket-buying public during events; the 100 level concourse provides access to the lower bowl (including the 200-level seats); the 300-level concourse provides access to the upper bowl. A third concourse, the 200 level, provides access to guest services such as a sports bar, a barbecue grill, an executive banquet facility, and several outdoor terraces, including two which permit smoking. A fourth concourse, known as Suite Level, provides access to the skyboxes and is restricted to patrons who have skybox admission. All concourses provide a variety of concession stands. The arena also features 32 public restrooms; women's toilets outnumber men's toilets 3 to 1.[2] There are wi-fi hotspots throughout the arena.[16] The concourses are decorated with historical memorabilia.[21]
The primary scoreboard is a Mitsubishi-manufactured high definition video scoreboard. This scoreboard, which hangs from the ceiling over center court, features four 15 feet by 22.5 feet (4.5 m by 6.75 m) video screens, among the biggest in the NBA.[16] The arena also features over 650 television monitors placed throughout,[2] showing the action on court. Auxiliary scoreboards located both in the arena itself and the concourses provide statistical information, including "hustle" statistics for basketball (rebounds, blocked shots, and steals). Three media towers, one at each main entrance, provide video of other games in the NBA.[21]
[edit] Acoustics
A unique feature found in no other multi-purpose arena what is known as the "acoustical cloud". The acoustical cloud is a set of 160 rotating acoustic panels suspended from the Rose Garden ceiling, and were intended to recreate the roar of noise that made the old Memorial Coliseum one of the loudest buildings in the NBA. One side of each 10 feet by 10 feet (3 m by 3 m) panel reflects sound, while the other side absorbs sound. Each panel is shaped like an airplane wing, and is 8 inches (20 cm) thick at the center and 4 inches (10 cm) thick at the edges. The effect during Blazers games is to absorb the noise from the upper levels and reflect it back down to the court.
The panels permit the acoustics of the arena to be adjusted according to the requirements of the event. For smaller events in which only the lower bowl of the arena is used, the panels can be lowered to further improve the sound and increase the intimacy of the arena. The acoustical cloud cost US$2 million to design and install.[22] The arena is also equipped with a JBL sound system.[16] The acoustics of the Rose Garden have been widely praised compared to similar venues.[19]
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Holderness House
Summergangs Hall became the property of the brothers B.M. and W.E. Jalland in 1838. The old house was pulled down and the present house in an Elizabethan style, was built and named Holderness House. It was built to designs by James Clephan of London by the builders, Messrs Hutchinson of Hull. Holderness House has stone vaulted cellars and the entrance has stairs up to the ground floor. The Holderness Road end of the farm lane was incorporated into the Holderness House grounds and another access road made for the farm, although this doubling of the size of the grounds might have been done by a previous owner. The Holderness House grounds then extended over what are now Jalland Street, Village Road and Laburnum Avenue and extended back almost to where Maple Grove now is. A lodge (this was the one mentioned in Blashill's 'Evidences Relating to East Hull' although it had been demolished long before the book was published in 1903) was built on Holderness Road near where Jalland Street now is and, from here, the drive turned right to run parallel to Holderness Road and then turned left to go along the elm-lined avenue. Eventually the drive left the avenue and swung round to the right towards the Holderness House stone stairway. There were many statues in the grounds and might have been those in the grounds of Summergangs Hall. On the 1888-89 Ordnance Survey Map, twelve statues and a sun- dial are shown.
Holderness House from the S.W.
Holderness House from the South West
The far end of the elm-lined avenue, which ran along where the bottom of the gardens of 42 to 80 Village road now are, was in the 19th century a shady walk in the Holderness House grounds. At the end of the avenue were two iron gates, which had been brought from Newark Castle and were, perhaps, 800 years old according to Sheehan's 'History of Hull'. The gates were set in two stone arches. These stone arches were donated to the Hull Corporation and removed to East Park but, on 27th November 1906, the Corporation's East Park Sub-Committee inspected the remains of the ancient stone archway presented to the Corporation by Mrs. Jalland and it was resolved that owing to the expense that would be incurred, the Sub-Committee consider it undesirable to erect the remains of a gateway as originally proposed; and that the Superintendent be authorised to make such use of the remains in connection with rocks at the Park as he may consider desirable.
Holderness House from the S.E.
Holderness House from the South East
Boswell Middleton Jalland was Mayor of Hull in 1836 and 1846 and he was a leading local Liberal. His brother, William Empson Jalland, was Sheriff of Hull in 1842. James Clay, the Hull M.P., often visited Holderness House. Liberal Party events were held in the grounds of Holderness House in the 1840s and people strolled along the elm-lined avenue. Boswell Jalland was called the Adonis of Holderness House and he remained a bachelor until he attended the Liberal Party Conference at Brighton when he was 61. He married Emily Williams, 22 years old and the only daughter of Mr. John Williams of Penlee, Devon, at Brighton on 10th April 1851. When he returned to Hull after the conference with his young wife, local Tories had a lot to say.
Boswell and Emily Jalland had four children, born in 1852, 1853, 1855 and 1861, named Emily, Boswell George, Walter Clay and Gerald William. Boswell Jalland was 71 when his youngest son was born. It would seem that B.M. Jalland acquired his brother's share in the Holderness House estate in 1868 and was then the sole owner. Mr B.M. Jalland died on 29th September 1880 aged 90 but his widow continued to live at Holderness House for many years. Boswell Jalland had left the Holderness House Estate in trust for his children with his wife as trustee and life tenant.
The Holderness Road lodge was demolished in the mid 1880s and part of the Holderness House grounds was sold for the building of Jalland Street, some shops and Chestnut Villas (now 365-371 Holderness Road), where Joseph Rank and Alfred Gelder occupied opposite ends of the block at the time of the 1891 census. At 1 Chestnut Villas, now Annisons & Boddy's undertakers, seven people were recorded in the 1891 census. They were the architect, W, Alfred Gelder, his wife and niece, three children and two domestic servants. At 4 Chestnut Villas, now 371 Holderness Road, thirteen people were listed in the census. They were the miller, Joseph Rank, his wife and her sister, six children, a school governess, a sick nurse, a nursemaid and a servant. Some of them were there as Mrs. Rank had given birth to a baby a month earlier. The two-year old child, Joseph A. Rank, became famous later in life as J. Arthur Rank, the film magnate and head of the Rank Organisation, eventually becoming Lord Rank.
At Holderness House, there were eight residents recorded in the 1891 census. Mrs. Emily Jalland was aged 62. Her unmarried sons, Walter Clay and Gerald William were aged 35 and 30. They were all described as living on their own means. There were also four servants and a footman. Like Queen Victoria, Mrs. Jalland always wore black as a widow and the lifestyle at Holderness House must have been very subdued compared with what it had been like in the 1850s.
Around 1900, when Boswell George Jalland was living at Lambwath Hall, Sutton, and his sister, Emily, had married a Mr. Webster, Holderness House was regarded by some as the seat of Walter Clay Jalland but his mother, as the trustee, really controlled the Estate. For over twenty years, Holderness House had no lodge, and the grounds became overgrown. When small boys went into the grounds to collect conkers, Mrs. Jalland used to chase them away herself. In 1906, the Jalland Trustees applied to the Corporation to construct a road on the north-west side of Holderness Road parallel to Jalland Street. This was agreed to but the road was not immediately constructed. Some land was put up for sale.
Holderness House from the S.W.
Holderness House from the South West
The far end of the elm-lined avenue, which ran along where the bottom of the gardens of 42 to 80 Village road now are, was in the 19th century a shady walk in the Holderness House grounds. At the end of the avenue were two iron gates, which had been brought from Newark Castle and were, perhaps, 800 years old according to Sheehan's 'History of Hull'. The gates were set in two stone arches. These stone arches were donated to the Hull Corporation and removed to East Park but, on 27th November 1906, the Corporation's East Park Sub-Committee inspected the remains of the ancient stone archway presented to the Corporation by Mrs. Jalland and it was resolved that owing to the expense that would be incurred, the Sub-Committee consider it undesirable to erect the remains of a gateway as originally proposed; and that the Superintendent be authorised to make such use of the remains in connection with rocks at the Park as he may consider desirable.
Holderness House from the S.E.
Holderness House from the South East
Boswell Middleton Jalland was Mayor of Hull in 1836 and 1846 and he was a leading local Liberal. His brother, William Empson Jalland, was Sheriff of Hull in 1842. James Clay, the Hull M.P., often visited Holderness House. Liberal Party events were held in the grounds of Holderness House in the 1840s and people strolled along the elm-lined avenue. Boswell Jalland was called the Adonis of Holderness House and he remained a bachelor until he attended the Liberal Party Conference at Brighton when he was 61. He married Emily Williams, 22 years old and the only daughter of Mr. John Williams of Penlee, Devon, at Brighton on 10th April 1851. When he returned to Hull after the conference with his young wife, local Tories had a lot to say.
Boswell and Emily Jalland had four children, born in 1852, 1853, 1855 and 1861, named Emily, Boswell George, Walter Clay and Gerald William. Boswell Jalland was 71 when his youngest son was born. It would seem that B.M. Jalland acquired his brother's share in the Holderness House estate in 1868 and was then the sole owner. Mr B.M. Jalland died on 29th September 1880 aged 90 but his widow continued to live at Holderness House for many years. Boswell Jalland had left the Holderness House Estate in trust for his children with his wife as trustee and life tenant.
The Holderness Road lodge was demolished in the mid 1880s and part of the Holderness House grounds was sold for the building of Jalland Street, some shops and Chestnut Villas (now 365-371 Holderness Road), where Joseph Rank and Alfred Gelder occupied opposite ends of the block at the time of the 1891 census. At 1 Chestnut Villas, now Annisons & Boddy's undertakers, seven people were recorded in the 1891 census. They were the architect, W, Alfred Gelder, his wife and niece, three children and two domestic servants. At 4 Chestnut Villas, now 371 Holderness Road, thirteen people were listed in the census. They were the miller, Joseph Rank, his wife and her sister, six children, a school governess, a sick nurse, a nursemaid and a servant. Some of them were there as Mrs. Rank had given birth to a baby a month earlier. The two-year old child, Joseph A. Rank, became famous later in life as J. Arthur Rank, the film magnate and head of the Rank Organisation, eventually becoming Lord Rank.
At Holderness House, there were eight residents recorded in the 1891 census. Mrs. Emily Jalland was aged 62. Her unmarried sons, Walter Clay and Gerald William were aged 35 and 30. They were all described as living on their own means. There were also four servants and a footman. Like Queen Victoria, Mrs. Jalland always wore black as a widow and the lifestyle at Holderness House must have been very subdued compared with what it had been like in the 1850s.
Around 1900, when Boswell George Jalland was living at Lambwath Hall, Sutton, and his sister, Emily, had married a Mr. Webster, Holderness House was regarded by some as the seat of Walter Clay Jalland but his mother, as the trustee, really controlled the Estate. For over twenty years, Holderness House had no lodge, and the grounds became overgrown. When small boys went into the grounds to collect conkers, Mrs. Jalland used to chase them away herself. In 1906, the Jalland Trustees applied to the Corporation to construct a road on the north-west side of Holderness Road parallel to Jalland Street. This was agreed to but the road was not immediately constructed. Some land was put up for sale.
Friday, July 8, 2011
Rose Varieties: Roses on Easy Street
"An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." - H. L. Mencken
Although roses do have a reputation as being the "divas" of the flower world -- temperamental, difficult to cultivate, easy to injure, etc. -- some rose varieties are easier to grow than others (see Not Your Mother's Roses).
First, you need to select a rose that will do well in your growing environment. (Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for advice.) It's always easier to work with plants that like the climate and the soil that you've got, rather than spending all of your time watering and fertilizing trying to keep them happy. For example, if you live in Montana and have harsh winters, dry summers and a short growing season, you won't want to grow a rose that's designed to flourish in Florida. That's just not fair to you or the rose.
If you're new to the world of rose gardening, consider making your life a little easier by picking roses that not only do well in your climate, but are known to be "easy-to-grow." Ask more experienced gardeners (see Master Gardeners) what they would recommend, or visit a garden forum online for more information. A little research will go a long way.
Also, consider joining the American Rose Society. A membership will provide you with all kinds of advice and give you access to rose gardeners both locally and nationally. The society also publishes a Handbook for Selecting Roses, which is updated once a year and includes a listing of rose varieties, each with a numerical rating. Based on these ratings some of the best roses in each category are:
Climbers. Democracie, Royal Sunset, Clair Matin, Dublin Bay, New Dawn, Altissimo, and City of York.
Floribundas. Anabell, Simplicity, Orange Morsday, Europeana, Bridal White, Iceberg, and Little Darling.
Grandifloras. Queen Elizabeth, Gold Medal, Pink Parfait, About Face, Prima Donna, Dublin, and Double Delight.
Heritage. Charles de Mills, Apothecary's Rose, Celsiana, Nastarana, Crested Moss, Souvenir d'Alphonse Lavallee, and Souvenir de la Malmaison.
Hybrid Teas. Irish Elegance, Touch of Class, Mister Lincoln, Marijke Koopman, Olympiad, Pristine, and Dainty Bess.
Miniatures. Jean Kenneally, Beauty Secret, Irresistible, Minnie Pearl, Holy Toledo, Giggles, and Gourmet Popcorn.
Shrubs. Dortmund, Eddie's Crimson, Henry Hudson, Apple Jack, Surry, Elveshorn, and Immensee.
I've also included a list of recommended rose varieties by garden designer and author, Barbara Blossom Ashmun. These are all considered "low maintenance" flowers and are relatively easy to grow.
According to Ashmun, rugosas and hybrid musks not only are resistant to common diseases such as black spot, rust and powdery mildew, but are known to bloom repeatedly. She specifically recommends Rosa rugosa, the sea tomato, as well as the six-foot-tall hybrid rugosa 'Hansa,' which has huge, fragrant, purple-pink flowers. Or try rugosa 'Scabrosa' with large single pink flowers.
Most roses require a lot of sun, but many hybrid musks do well in partial shade. Ashmun recommends "Ballerina," with its pale pink blooms reminiscent of the subtle pink tint of ballet shoes or a ballerina's tutu, "Felicia," which has silvery pink flowers and the white "Moonlight." "Mozart," a hybrid musk rose is a "looker," but is also reputedly easy to grow.
Finally, experiment and record the results. See what roses work for you. Which are easiest to grow and flourish in your garden? Which bloom the most often? Also, figure out what species you like the best whether it's because of the rose's fragrance, its bloom, it's easy to grow or for any combination of reasons.
Although roses do have a reputation as being the "divas" of the flower world -- temperamental, difficult to cultivate, easy to injure, etc. -- some rose varieties are easier to grow than others (see Not Your Mother's Roses).
First, you need to select a rose that will do well in your growing environment. (Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for advice.) It's always easier to work with plants that like the climate and the soil that you've got, rather than spending all of your time watering and fertilizing trying to keep them happy. For example, if you live in Montana and have harsh winters, dry summers and a short growing season, you won't want to grow a rose that's designed to flourish in Florida. That's just not fair to you or the rose.
If you're new to the world of rose gardening, consider making your life a little easier by picking roses that not only do well in your climate, but are known to be "easy-to-grow." Ask more experienced gardeners (see Master Gardeners) what they would recommend, or visit a garden forum online for more information. A little research will go a long way.
Also, consider joining the American Rose Society. A membership will provide you with all kinds of advice and give you access to rose gardeners both locally and nationally. The society also publishes a Handbook for Selecting Roses, which is updated once a year and includes a listing of rose varieties, each with a numerical rating. Based on these ratings some of the best roses in each category are:
Climbers. Democracie, Royal Sunset, Clair Matin, Dublin Bay, New Dawn, Altissimo, and City of York.
Floribundas. Anabell, Simplicity, Orange Morsday, Europeana, Bridal White, Iceberg, and Little Darling.
Grandifloras. Queen Elizabeth, Gold Medal, Pink Parfait, About Face, Prima Donna, Dublin, and Double Delight.
Heritage. Charles de Mills, Apothecary's Rose, Celsiana, Nastarana, Crested Moss, Souvenir d'Alphonse Lavallee, and Souvenir de la Malmaison.
Hybrid Teas. Irish Elegance, Touch of Class, Mister Lincoln, Marijke Koopman, Olympiad, Pristine, and Dainty Bess.
Miniatures. Jean Kenneally, Beauty Secret, Irresistible, Minnie Pearl, Holy Toledo, Giggles, and Gourmet Popcorn.
Shrubs. Dortmund, Eddie's Crimson, Henry Hudson, Apple Jack, Surry, Elveshorn, and Immensee.
I've also included a list of recommended rose varieties by garden designer and author, Barbara Blossom Ashmun. These are all considered "low maintenance" flowers and are relatively easy to grow.
According to Ashmun, rugosas and hybrid musks not only are resistant to common diseases such as black spot, rust and powdery mildew, but are known to bloom repeatedly. She specifically recommends Rosa rugosa, the sea tomato, as well as the six-foot-tall hybrid rugosa 'Hansa,' which has huge, fragrant, purple-pink flowers. Or try rugosa 'Scabrosa' with large single pink flowers.
Most roses require a lot of sun, but many hybrid musks do well in partial shade. Ashmun recommends "Ballerina," with its pale pink blooms reminiscent of the subtle pink tint of ballet shoes or a ballerina's tutu, "Felicia," which has silvery pink flowers and the white "Moonlight." "Mozart," a hybrid musk rose is a "looker," but is also reputedly easy to grow.
Finally, experiment and record the results. See what roses work for you. Which are easiest to grow and flourish in your garden? Which bloom the most often? Also, figure out what species you like the best whether it's because of the rose's fragrance, its bloom, it's easy to grow or for any combination of reasons.
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Rose Problems & Prevention
"A thorn defends the rose, harming only those who would steal the blossom" - Chinese Proverb
You're not the only one who loves roses. Pests and disease adore them as well. I don't have the space (or the time!) to devote to each and every garden pest that may attack, but here I have listed several of the more common ones, as well as what to do about them. If you're having problems diagnosing what the problem is, enlist the aid of your local agricultural extension agent or a friendly rosarian. You can also purchase products for organic pest control here.
Always start with the least harmful method of control and only "escalate" if you're not getting results. Also, weigh the damage of the infestation against how much time and money you want to spend. Strive for a balance that will create the healthiest rose bushes at the lowest cost to you and the environment.
Finally, remember to keep a garden journal about your pest control adventures. Documenting what you've done, will help you monitor results and can help you learn what works and what doesn't - given your plants, your garden and your local climate.
Insects
Spider Mites. Common throughout the United States, many species of spider mites attack roses. Found in colonies, mostly on the undersides of leaves, they feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking out the juices. Signs of mite infestation include yellowed, dry looking leaves with white feeding marks (small dots). Sometimes you'll notice silvery webbing on the leaves and stems. Mites are tiny (1/50 inch) so you probably won't see them -- just the damage that they are causing. In extreme cases, your rose bushes will lose their leaves. Use dormant oil or lime sulfur to eradicate the mites, but be careful to apply only during the roses' dormant stage. During the growing season, spray insecticidal soap mixed with pyrethrin.
Rose Bud Borers. There are actually two types of borers. Rose curculios are about 1/4 inch in size, bright red with black beaks. Rose leaf beetles are much smaller -- about 1/8 inch -- and are shiny blue or green. They both damage roses the same way: by boring into the flower buds and preventing the buds from blooming. The least invasive way to get rid of borers is to pick them by hand, as well as by removing and destroying infected buds. To reduce their numbers and prevent them from spreading to other plants, spray insecticidal soap mixed with pyrethrin.
Rose Chafers. Commonly found east of the Rocky Mountains, these insects chew large, irregular holes in rose blossoms. Like the borers, the least-toxic solution is to hand pick rose chafers off your roses, but you can also try using a botanical insecticide to knock down their numbers. Just remember to add a little horticultural oil to the insecticide. That way it will stick to the leaves and not get washed away by rain or watering. The organic insecticides pyrethrum (made from chrysanthemum flowers) and rotenone are good choices.
Leafcutter Bees. As their name suggests, leafcutter bees (smaller and darker than a honey bee) cut precise round or oval holes from the sides of plant leaves, which are used to form nest cells. In roses, more serious problems can occur when they bore into recently pruned stems and canes, causing wilt. To reduce damage caused by leafcutter bees, prune out the injured tips several inches below the damaged area and seal the cut with grating wax or putty.
Japanese Beetles. Found in most states east of the Mississippi River (and some isolated spots in California, Oregon, and Wisconsin), Japanese beetles (1/2 inch) are metallic green with copper-colored wing covers. Adults are very destructive and chew small holes in both the leaves and flowers of rose bushes. Often feeding in groups, the beetles will start on the upper part of a plant and work downward. If detected, apply milky spore to lawns to attack grubs (larvae) and spray organic insecticides as needed. Also, in the early morning or evening, when beetles are less active, shake them from plants onto tarps and drop them into a bucket of soapy water.
Diseases
Most of the common rose diseases are fungal in nature. You can nip that problem in the bud by ensuring good air flow for your plants. That means providing plenty of room between roses, ideally five feet apart from each other. Overcrowding means excessive moisture and gives fungal spores the opportunity they've been waiting for.
Botrytis. A fungal disease that attacks leaves and canes, and often prevents blooms from opening. Buds and flowers infected with botrytis will appear grayish-brown and shriveled. Prune and destroy diseased plant parts. Apply micronized sulfur to prevent further damage, and provide plenty of air circulation. Also, be sure to keep the area under the plant clean to prevent reoccurrence. Roses under stress are highly susceptible to this disease.
Powdery Mildew. If the leaves of your rose plants look like they've been treated to an after-bath dousing of talcum powder, chances are they've fallen prey to powdery mildew. Severe infection will cause leaves to yellow or brown and can disfigured shoots and flowers. To reduce the chances of powdery mildew, be sure to keep the ground under rose bushes clean and try to increase air circulation. Water only in the morning hours to avoid moisture build up. To treat powdery mildew, try this home made remedy: 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1/2 teaspoon oil and one quart of warm water. Mix and then apply by spray bottle. Sulfur dusts will also control powdery mildew.
Black Spot. A fungal disease that will cover your rose plants in...well, black spots! One of the most common plant diseases affecting roses, black spot (PDF format) can be difficult to control and may also increase the likelihood of winter injury. Spores lay dormant under rose plants throughout the winter and are spread to healthy leaves by splashing water. Infection most often occurs in areas of high humidity and rainfall. Like most fungal diseases, the key to getting rid of black spot is to keep the area under your roses as clean as possible. Remove and destroy any fallen debris or foliage and mulch often. Make sure your roses have proper air circulation and water from below, if at all possible. Apply organic fungicides, like sulfur on a weekly basis.
Canker. Appearing as dead or discolored areas on rose canes, this fungal disease can enter healthy plants through pruning wounds and is spread by splashing water, insects and even dirty tools! If you suspect that your plants are infected with rose canker, do not fertilize or prune as this will stimulate new growth, which is most susceptible to this disease. As with other fungal diseases, keep your plants and the area around them clean and raked up. Get rid of infected plant parts as soon as possible. If necessary, apply copper-based fungicides to establish control.
You're not the only one who loves roses. Pests and disease adore them as well. I don't have the space (or the time!) to devote to each and every garden pest that may attack, but here I have listed several of the more common ones, as well as what to do about them. If you're having problems diagnosing what the problem is, enlist the aid of your local agricultural extension agent or a friendly rosarian. You can also purchase products for organic pest control here.
Always start with the least harmful method of control and only "escalate" if you're not getting results. Also, weigh the damage of the infestation against how much time and money you want to spend. Strive for a balance that will create the healthiest rose bushes at the lowest cost to you and the environment.
Finally, remember to keep a garden journal about your pest control adventures. Documenting what you've done, will help you monitor results and can help you learn what works and what doesn't - given your plants, your garden and your local climate.
Insects
Spider Mites. Common throughout the United States, many species of spider mites attack roses. Found in colonies, mostly on the undersides of leaves, they feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking out the juices. Signs of mite infestation include yellowed, dry looking leaves with white feeding marks (small dots). Sometimes you'll notice silvery webbing on the leaves and stems. Mites are tiny (1/50 inch) so you probably won't see them -- just the damage that they are causing. In extreme cases, your rose bushes will lose their leaves. Use dormant oil or lime sulfur to eradicate the mites, but be careful to apply only during the roses' dormant stage. During the growing season, spray insecticidal soap mixed with pyrethrin.
Rose Bud Borers. There are actually two types of borers. Rose curculios are about 1/4 inch in size, bright red with black beaks. Rose leaf beetles are much smaller -- about 1/8 inch -- and are shiny blue or green. They both damage roses the same way: by boring into the flower buds and preventing the buds from blooming. The least invasive way to get rid of borers is to pick them by hand, as well as by removing and destroying infected buds. To reduce their numbers and prevent them from spreading to other plants, spray insecticidal soap mixed with pyrethrin.
Rose Chafers. Commonly found east of the Rocky Mountains, these insects chew large, irregular holes in rose blossoms. Like the borers, the least-toxic solution is to hand pick rose chafers off your roses, but you can also try using a botanical insecticide to knock down their numbers. Just remember to add a little horticultural oil to the insecticide. That way it will stick to the leaves and not get washed away by rain or watering. The organic insecticides pyrethrum (made from chrysanthemum flowers) and rotenone are good choices.
Leafcutter Bees. As their name suggests, leafcutter bees (smaller and darker than a honey bee) cut precise round or oval holes from the sides of plant leaves, which are used to form nest cells. In roses, more serious problems can occur when they bore into recently pruned stems and canes, causing wilt. To reduce damage caused by leafcutter bees, prune out the injured tips several inches below the damaged area and seal the cut with grating wax or putty.
Japanese Beetles. Found in most states east of the Mississippi River (and some isolated spots in California, Oregon, and Wisconsin), Japanese beetles (1/2 inch) are metallic green with copper-colored wing covers. Adults are very destructive and chew small holes in both the leaves and flowers of rose bushes. Often feeding in groups, the beetles will start on the upper part of a plant and work downward. If detected, apply milky spore to lawns to attack grubs (larvae) and spray organic insecticides as needed. Also, in the early morning or evening, when beetles are less active, shake them from plants onto tarps and drop them into a bucket of soapy water.
Diseases
Most of the common rose diseases are fungal in nature. You can nip that problem in the bud by ensuring good air flow for your plants. That means providing plenty of room between roses, ideally five feet apart from each other. Overcrowding means excessive moisture and gives fungal spores the opportunity they've been waiting for.
Botrytis. A fungal disease that attacks leaves and canes, and often prevents blooms from opening. Buds and flowers infected with botrytis will appear grayish-brown and shriveled. Prune and destroy diseased plant parts. Apply micronized sulfur to prevent further damage, and provide plenty of air circulation. Also, be sure to keep the area under the plant clean to prevent reoccurrence. Roses under stress are highly susceptible to this disease.
Powdery Mildew. If the leaves of your rose plants look like they've been treated to an after-bath dousing of talcum powder, chances are they've fallen prey to powdery mildew. Severe infection will cause leaves to yellow or brown and can disfigured shoots and flowers. To reduce the chances of powdery mildew, be sure to keep the ground under rose bushes clean and try to increase air circulation. Water only in the morning hours to avoid moisture build up. To treat powdery mildew, try this home made remedy: 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1/2 teaspoon oil and one quart of warm water. Mix and then apply by spray bottle. Sulfur dusts will also control powdery mildew.
Black Spot. A fungal disease that will cover your rose plants in...well, black spots! One of the most common plant diseases affecting roses, black spot (PDF format) can be difficult to control and may also increase the likelihood of winter injury. Spores lay dormant under rose plants throughout the winter and are spread to healthy leaves by splashing water. Infection most often occurs in areas of high humidity and rainfall. Like most fungal diseases, the key to getting rid of black spot is to keep the area under your roses as clean as possible. Remove and destroy any fallen debris or foliage and mulch often. Make sure your roses have proper air circulation and water from below, if at all possible. Apply organic fungicides, like sulfur on a weekly basis.
Canker. Appearing as dead or discolored areas on rose canes, this fungal disease can enter healthy plants through pruning wounds and is spread by splashing water, insects and even dirty tools! If you suspect that your plants are infected with rose canker, do not fertilize or prune as this will stimulate new growth, which is most susceptible to this disease. As with other fungal diseases, keep your plants and the area around them clean and raked up. Get rid of infected plant parts as soon as possible. If necessary, apply copper-based fungicides to establish control.
Friday, July 1, 2011
How to Grow and Care for Aloe Vera Plants
There are over 250 species of Aloes in the world, mostly native to Africa. They range in size from little one inch miniatures to massive plant colonies consisting of hundreds of 2 foot diameter plants.
Although most Aloes have some medicinal or commercial value, the most commonly known is the Aloe barbadensis...
better known as the Aloe Vera.
All Aloes are semi tropical succulent plants, and may only be grown outdoors in areas where there is no chance of freezing (USDA zones 10-11). However, they make excellent house plants when they are given sufficient light. Container grown Aloe plants benefit from spending their summer outdoors. Older specimens may even bloom, producing a tall stock covered with bright colored coral flowers.
The nectar from Aloe flowers is a favorite food for hummingbirds!
Hank will return you to the Garden Helper
Growing Requirements for Aloes
Because Aloe Vera plants are very succulent and consist of 95% water, they are extremely frost tender. If they are grown outdoors in warm climates, they should be planted in full sun, or light shade. The soil should be moderately fertile, and fast draining. Established plants will survive a drought quite well, but for the benefit of the plant, water should be provided.
Because of their popularity, Aloe vera plants are available at almost every garden shop or nursery. Unless you live in area with a very mild climate, it's best to leave your Aloe plant in the pot and place it near a window that gets a lot of sun. You can move the pot outdoors during the summer months.
Aloe Vera is a succulent, and as such, stores a large quantity of water within its leaves and root system. During the winter months, the plant will become somewhat dormant, and utilize very little moisture. During this period watering should be minimal. Allow the soil to become completely dry before giving the plant a cup or two of water.
During the summer months, the soil should be completely soaked, but then be allowed to dry again before re-watering.
Aloes have a shallow, spreading root system so when it is time to repot choose a wide planter, rather than a deep one. Use a planter with a drainage hole, or provide a 1-2 inch layer of gravel in the bottom of the pot to ensure adequate drainage. Use a good commercial potting mix with extra perlite, granite grit, or coarse sand added. You may also use a packaged 'cacti mix' soil.
Fertilize yearly, in the spring with half strength, bloom type fertilizer (10-40-10).
Aloe Vera plants are propagated by removing the offsets which are produced around the base of mature plants, when they are a couple inches tall (or larger). They can also be grown from seed.
The Medicinal Properties of Aloe Vera
The medicinal properties of Aloe vera have been known and recorded since biblical times. It has been used for a variety of ailments, and as an ointment for burns, cuts, and rashes, as well as an ingredient in various beauty preparations.
The sap of the Aloe is a thick, mucilaginous gel. It is this gel which is used medicinally. The outer skin has essentially no value, but because it is commercially easier and less expensive to utilize the entire leaf, 'whole leaf' Aloe juice has been hyped as the 'best'. This is not the case.
Using Aloe Vera Gel
As to the claims of the medicinal properties of the Aloe plant, I can only speak from my personal experience. I have kept an Aloe plant around for years, primarily for burns.
In case of burns, an immediate application of fresh gel has relieved much of the pain, and prevented blistering, many times.
I also found it to be quite effective to relieve itching from stings, bites and various 'stinging' plants, such as poison ivy.
Aloe gel is also good for the same problems when they are encountered by your pets.
When you need to use it medicinally, just remove a lower leaf from the plant, slice it open, and apply the gel on the affected area.
Although most Aloes have some medicinal or commercial value, the most commonly known is the Aloe barbadensis...
better known as the Aloe Vera.
All Aloes are semi tropical succulent plants, and may only be grown outdoors in areas where there is no chance of freezing (USDA zones 10-11). However, they make excellent house plants when they are given sufficient light. Container grown Aloe plants benefit from spending their summer outdoors. Older specimens may even bloom, producing a tall stock covered with bright colored coral flowers.
The nectar from Aloe flowers is a favorite food for hummingbirds!
Hank will return you to the Garden Helper
Growing Requirements for Aloes
Because Aloe Vera plants are very succulent and consist of 95% water, they are extremely frost tender. If they are grown outdoors in warm climates, they should be planted in full sun, or light shade. The soil should be moderately fertile, and fast draining. Established plants will survive a drought quite well, but for the benefit of the plant, water should be provided.
Because of their popularity, Aloe vera plants are available at almost every garden shop or nursery. Unless you live in area with a very mild climate, it's best to leave your Aloe plant in the pot and place it near a window that gets a lot of sun. You can move the pot outdoors during the summer months.
Aloe Vera is a succulent, and as such, stores a large quantity of water within its leaves and root system. During the winter months, the plant will become somewhat dormant, and utilize very little moisture. During this period watering should be minimal. Allow the soil to become completely dry before giving the plant a cup or two of water.
During the summer months, the soil should be completely soaked, but then be allowed to dry again before re-watering.
Aloes have a shallow, spreading root system so when it is time to repot choose a wide planter, rather than a deep one. Use a planter with a drainage hole, or provide a 1-2 inch layer of gravel in the bottom of the pot to ensure adequate drainage. Use a good commercial potting mix with extra perlite, granite grit, or coarse sand added. You may also use a packaged 'cacti mix' soil.
Fertilize yearly, in the spring with half strength, bloom type fertilizer (10-40-10).
Aloe Vera plants are propagated by removing the offsets which are produced around the base of mature plants, when they are a couple inches tall (or larger). They can also be grown from seed.
The Medicinal Properties of Aloe Vera
The medicinal properties of Aloe vera have been known and recorded since biblical times. It has been used for a variety of ailments, and as an ointment for burns, cuts, and rashes, as well as an ingredient in various beauty preparations.
The sap of the Aloe is a thick, mucilaginous gel. It is this gel which is used medicinally. The outer skin has essentially no value, but because it is commercially easier and less expensive to utilize the entire leaf, 'whole leaf' Aloe juice has been hyped as the 'best'. This is not the case.
Using Aloe Vera Gel
As to the claims of the medicinal properties of the Aloe plant, I can only speak from my personal experience. I have kept an Aloe plant around for years, primarily for burns.
In case of burns, an immediate application of fresh gel has relieved much of the pain, and prevented blistering, many times.
I also found it to be quite effective to relieve itching from stings, bites and various 'stinging' plants, such as poison ivy.
Aloe gel is also good for the same problems when they are encountered by your pets.
When you need to use it medicinally, just remove a lower leaf from the plant, slice it open, and apply the gel on the affected area.
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Lavender
Common name for a genus (Lavandula) of fragrant herbs or shrubs of which a Mediterranean subshrub species (L. spica) is grown for ornament in the garden and for its sweet scent when dried. The dried flowers are used to fill sachets and to perfume clothing or linens. Commercially they, and the green parts, are used for making "oil of spike," aromatic vinegar and lavender water.
True lavender, not being fully hardy, is little grown in northern gardens, where it must be protected over winter by mulching. It is more popular, therefore, in the milder Pacific Coast and in the South. As seed produces variable plants, propagation is commonly by cuttings of selected plants. Taken of one-year-old "wood" in spring, these are set in a shady place, 4 inches apart, and kept cultivated for a year.
Topped Lavender
Lavender Flowers
Then they are transplanted not less than 2 feet asunder in permanent quarters in dry, light, limy, friable soil and full sunlight. In such a location they thrive best, develop the maximum fragrance and are least likely to be injured in winter. In wet soils, they grow but poorly; in rich soils, they become lush and sappy, and in both types they lack fragrance and easily succumb to frost.
True lavender, not being fully hardy, is little grown in northern gardens, where it must be protected over winter by mulching. It is more popular, therefore, in the milder Pacific Coast and in the South. As seed produces variable plants, propagation is commonly by cuttings of selected plants. Taken of one-year-old "wood" in spring, these are set in a shady place, 4 inches apart, and kept cultivated for a year.
Topped Lavender
Lavender Flowers
Then they are transplanted not less than 2 feet asunder in permanent quarters in dry, light, limy, friable soil and full sunlight. In such a location they thrive best, develop the maximum fragrance and are least likely to be injured in winter. In wet soils, they grow but poorly; in rich soils, they become lush and sappy, and in both types they lack fragrance and easily succumb to frost.
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
Jasmine Gardening
Jasmine (Jasminum) is a genus of shrubs and vines in the olive family Oleaceae, comprising about 200 species. It is native to tropical and warm temperate regions of Europe, Asia and Africa. Jasmine means 'Gift from God', from Persian yasmin.
Jasmine is cultivated for its fragrant flowers, and is enjoyed in the garden, as a house plant, and as cut flowers. The fragrant flowers are worn in the hair by women in southern and southeast Asia. The flowers are opened at night , when the temperature is low, and can be plucked in the morning.
Jasmine tea is consumed in China, where it is called jasmine-flower tea. Flowers and tea are combined in a machine that control temperature and humidity. It takes about four hours for the tea to absorb the fragrance and flavor of the jasmine blossoms. This process may be repeated for as many as seven times to produce highest grades of Jasmine tea. In Japan, jasmine tea is known as Sanpin Cha.
Jasmine syrup is made from an extract of jasmine flowers, and the French are known for their jasmine syrup. In the United States, French-made jasmine syrup is used to make jasmine scones and marshmellows.
India, Egypt, China, and Morocco are producers of jasmine essential oil. The oil is expensive due to the large quantity of flowers needed to produce a small amount of oil. Jasmine flowers are collected at night because their scent of jasmine is powerful after dark. The flowers are laid out on cotton cloths soaked in olive oil for a few days, and then extracted leaving the true jasmine essence.
Jasmine absolute is used in perfume, aromatherapy, and incense. Absolute is similar to essential oil. It is a concentrated, highly-aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants through the use of solvent extraction techniques or the more labor-intensive method of enfleurage. Whereas essential oils can be typically obtained through steam distillation.
Jasmine sambac is the national flower of Indonesia, where it goes by the name 'Melati Putih'. It is also the most important flower in wedding ceremonies for ethnic Indonesians, especially in Java island.
In Pakistan, Jasminum officinale is the national flower, and is known by 'Chambeli' or 'Yasmine'.
In Philippines, jasmine is known as 'Sampaguita' , and is usually strung on garlands, used to adorn religious images.
In Hawaii, Jasminum fluminense is considered as an invasive species, so as Jasminum dichotomum in Florida.
In Thailand, jasmine flower is an symbol of the mother.
Jasminum auriculatum
Jasminum auriculatum
Author: J.M.Garg (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum azoricum
Jasminum azoricum
Author: Daniel Feliciano (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum fruticans
Jasminum fruticans
Author: Javier martin (public domain)
Jasminum grandiflorum
Jasminum grandiflorum
Author: Hedwig Storch (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum mesnyi
Jasminum mesnyi
Author: BotBln (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic)
Jasminum multiflorum
Jasminum multiflorum
Author: Forest & Kim Starr (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum nudiflorum
Jasminum nudiflorum
Author: Wildfeuer (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic)
Jasminum sambac
Jasminum sambac
Author: Scott Zona (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic)
Jasminum polyanthum
Jasminum polyanthum
Author: KENPEI (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan)
Jasminum laurifolium
Jasminum laurifolium
Author: Monocromatico (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0)
The making of Jasmine tea
The making of Jasmine tea
Author: Daqve Dahl (public domain)
Jasmine is cultivated for its fragrant flowers, and is enjoyed in the garden, as a house plant, and as cut flowers. The fragrant flowers are worn in the hair by women in southern and southeast Asia. The flowers are opened at night , when the temperature is low, and can be plucked in the morning.
Jasmine tea is consumed in China, where it is called jasmine-flower tea. Flowers and tea are combined in a machine that control temperature and humidity. It takes about four hours for the tea to absorb the fragrance and flavor of the jasmine blossoms. This process may be repeated for as many as seven times to produce highest grades of Jasmine tea. In Japan, jasmine tea is known as Sanpin Cha.
Jasmine syrup is made from an extract of jasmine flowers, and the French are known for their jasmine syrup. In the United States, French-made jasmine syrup is used to make jasmine scones and marshmellows.
India, Egypt, China, and Morocco are producers of jasmine essential oil. The oil is expensive due to the large quantity of flowers needed to produce a small amount of oil. Jasmine flowers are collected at night because their scent of jasmine is powerful after dark. The flowers are laid out on cotton cloths soaked in olive oil for a few days, and then extracted leaving the true jasmine essence.
Jasmine absolute is used in perfume, aromatherapy, and incense. Absolute is similar to essential oil. It is a concentrated, highly-aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants through the use of solvent extraction techniques or the more labor-intensive method of enfleurage. Whereas essential oils can be typically obtained through steam distillation.
Jasmine sambac is the national flower of Indonesia, where it goes by the name 'Melati Putih'. It is also the most important flower in wedding ceremonies for ethnic Indonesians, especially in Java island.
In Pakistan, Jasminum officinale is the national flower, and is known by 'Chambeli' or 'Yasmine'.
In Philippines, jasmine is known as 'Sampaguita' , and is usually strung on garlands, used to adorn religious images.
In Hawaii, Jasminum fluminense is considered as an invasive species, so as Jasminum dichotomum in Florida.
In Thailand, jasmine flower is an symbol of the mother.
Jasminum auriculatum
Jasminum auriculatum
Author: J.M.Garg (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum azoricum
Jasminum azoricum
Author: Daniel Feliciano (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum fruticans
Jasminum fruticans
Author: Javier martin (public domain)
Jasminum grandiflorum
Jasminum grandiflorum
Author: Hedwig Storch (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum mesnyi
Jasminum mesnyi
Author: BotBln (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic)
Jasminum multiflorum
Jasminum multiflorum
Author: Forest & Kim Starr (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum nudiflorum
Jasminum nudiflorum
Author: Wildfeuer (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic)
Jasminum sambac
Jasminum sambac
Author: Scott Zona (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic)
Jasminum polyanthum
Jasminum polyanthum
Author: KENPEI (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan)
Jasminum laurifolium
Jasminum laurifolium
Author: Monocromatico (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0)
The making of Jasmine tea
The making of Jasmine tea
Author: Daqve Dahl (public domain)
Sunday, June 26, 2011
Selecting a Site for Growing Roses
Footfalls echo in the memory, Down the passage which we did not take, Towards the door we never opened Into the rose-garden." - T. S. Eliot
Roses prefer a rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic (pH between 6.0 - 6.5). They like plenty of water and sun -- at least eight to 10 hours -- and grow best when protected from harsh wind and cold.
So, when selecting a site for your rose garden, look for spots that receive plenty of sun. If you have a choice between morning or afternoon sun, select morning. (Morning sun evaporates dew quickly - keeping leaves dry and fungal diseases at bay.) Note when the shade comes around and for how long. Really get a feel for the amount of sunlight the area receives and the type of soil it has. Roses are very tolerant of different soil conditions, but will thrive in garden soil that is improved with ample amounts of organic matter, such as compost, peat moss or aged animal manures.
While it's awfully tempting to rush out and begin planting right away, it's a good idea to take a moment and plan your attack. Spend some time sketching out what will go where, and avoid growing roses under gutters or eaves where falling snow or ice can damage tender canes. If you're interested, Martha Stewart gives her version of the ultimate rose garden here.
In addition to plenty of light, try and give your roses plenty of room. Don't plant them too closely together. Giving them space will allow air to circulate and will protect them from fungal diseases that thrive on moisture.
Also, figure out how you will water your roses. Is the spot with the most light close to water? Or will you have to lug it? Are sprinklers a possibility? You may have to install underground drip or a sprinkler system to ensure your roses are healthy (see Drip Irrigation for Home Gardens). Healthy roses means plants that will bloom repeatedly.
Roses will survive with a minimum amount of water, but will flourish when grown in well-draining soils with ample amounts of moisture. Most importantly water slowly and deeply. A schedule of two deep waterings per week is far better than several light waterings, which will encourage shallow roots that are easily damaged and cannot adequately anchor the plant. To learn more about watering roses click here.
When possible, water on bright sunny mornings, especially if using overhead sprinklers. This will give the foliage time to dry out before evening, thus preventing many plant diseases (see How to Prevent Rose Disease). Fungal spores are especially prevalent in spring and fall when nights are cool and days are warm. If the leaves are allowed to remain wet through the night, disease can spread rapidly.
Tip: A 2 to 4 inch layer of organic mulch will reduce the need for watering by slowing down soil moisture evaporation.
Roses grown in containers will require more frequent watering because potting mixes are often lighter than garden soil and the amount of soil around the plant is limited by the size of the pot. Watering container-grown roses once a day or even twice daily may be necessary, especially if they are located in a sunny location and the weather turns hot.
Once you've selected your site, record how well your garden does and how you can improve things in the coming years of cultivation. Keep notes about how much your watering, what sort of fertilizer you've used and how your roses have done for the year (see Keeping a Garden Journal). Tracking such things will ensure that your roses will improve each year as you learn from mistakes and find out what works and what doesn't.
Roses prefer a rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic (pH between 6.0 - 6.5). They like plenty of water and sun -- at least eight to 10 hours -- and grow best when protected from harsh wind and cold.
So, when selecting a site for your rose garden, look for spots that receive plenty of sun. If you have a choice between morning or afternoon sun, select morning. (Morning sun evaporates dew quickly - keeping leaves dry and fungal diseases at bay.) Note when the shade comes around and for how long. Really get a feel for the amount of sunlight the area receives and the type of soil it has. Roses are very tolerant of different soil conditions, but will thrive in garden soil that is improved with ample amounts of organic matter, such as compost, peat moss or aged animal manures.
While it's awfully tempting to rush out and begin planting right away, it's a good idea to take a moment and plan your attack. Spend some time sketching out what will go where, and avoid growing roses under gutters or eaves where falling snow or ice can damage tender canes. If you're interested, Martha Stewart gives her version of the ultimate rose garden here.
In addition to plenty of light, try and give your roses plenty of room. Don't plant them too closely together. Giving them space will allow air to circulate and will protect them from fungal diseases that thrive on moisture.
Also, figure out how you will water your roses. Is the spot with the most light close to water? Or will you have to lug it? Are sprinklers a possibility? You may have to install underground drip or a sprinkler system to ensure your roses are healthy (see Drip Irrigation for Home Gardens). Healthy roses means plants that will bloom repeatedly.
Roses will survive with a minimum amount of water, but will flourish when grown in well-draining soils with ample amounts of moisture. Most importantly water slowly and deeply. A schedule of two deep waterings per week is far better than several light waterings, which will encourage shallow roots that are easily damaged and cannot adequately anchor the plant. To learn more about watering roses click here.
When possible, water on bright sunny mornings, especially if using overhead sprinklers. This will give the foliage time to dry out before evening, thus preventing many plant diseases (see How to Prevent Rose Disease). Fungal spores are especially prevalent in spring and fall when nights are cool and days are warm. If the leaves are allowed to remain wet through the night, disease can spread rapidly.
Tip: A 2 to 4 inch layer of organic mulch will reduce the need for watering by slowing down soil moisture evaporation.
Roses grown in containers will require more frequent watering because potting mixes are often lighter than garden soil and the amount of soil around the plant is limited by the size of the pot. Watering container-grown roses once a day or even twice daily may be necessary, especially if they are located in a sunny location and the weather turns hot.
Once you've selected your site, record how well your garden does and how you can improve things in the coming years of cultivation. Keep notes about how much your watering, what sort of fertilizer you've used and how your roses have done for the year (see Keeping a Garden Journal). Tracking such things will ensure that your roses will improve each year as you learn from mistakes and find out what works and what doesn't.
Friday, June 17, 2011
Aloe vera, pronounced /ˈæloʊ ˈvɪrə/[1], also known as the true or medicinal aloe, is a species of succulent plant in the genus Aloe that is believed to have originated in the Sudan.[citation needed] Aloe vera grows in arid climates and is widely distributed in Africa, India, and other arid areas. The species is frequently cited as being used in herbal medicine. Many scientific studies of the use of extracts of Aloe vera have been undertaken, some of them conflicting.[2][3][4][5] Despite these limitations, there is some preliminary evidence that Aloe vera extracts may be useful in the treatment of wound and burn healing, minor skin infections, Sebaceous cyst, diabetes, and elevated blood lipids in humans.[4] These positive effects are thought to be due to the presence of compounds such as polysaccharides, mannans, anthraquinones, and lectins.
Description
Aloe vera is a stemless or very short-stemmed succulent plant growing to 60–100 cm (24–39 in) tall,spreading by offsets. The leaves are thick and fleshy, green to grey-green, with some varieties showing white flecks on the upper and lower stem surfaces.[8] The margin of the leaf is serrated and has small white teeth. The flowers are produced in summer on a spike up to 90 cm (35 in) tall, each flower pendulous, with a yellow tubular corolla 2–3 cm (0.8–1.2 in) long.[8][9] Like other Aloe species, Aloe vera forms arbuscular mycorrhiza, a symbiosis that allows the plant better access to mineral nutrients in soil.[10]
[edit] Taxonomy and etymology
Spotted forms of Aloe vera are sometimes known as Aloe vera var. chinensis.
The species has a number of synonyms: A. barbadensis Mill., Aloe indica Royle, Aloe perfoliata L. var. vera and A. vulgaris Lam.,[11][12] and common names including Chinese Aloe, Indian Aloe, true Aloe, Barbados Aloe, burn Aloe, first aid plant.[9][13][14][15][16] The species name vera means "true" or "genuine."[13] Some literature identifies the white spotted form of Aloe vera as Aloe vera var. chinensis,[17][18] however, the species varies widely with regard to leaf spots [19] and it has been suggested that the spotted form of Aloe vera may be conspecific with A. massawana.[20] The species was first described by Carl Linnaeus in 1753 as Aloe perfoliata var. vera,[21] and was described again in 1768 by Nicolaas Laurens Burman as Aloe vera in Flora Indica on the 6th of April and by Philip Miller as Aloe barbadensis some ten days after Burman in the Gardener's Dictionary.[22]
Techniques based on DNA comparison suggest that Aloe vera is relatively closely related to Aloe perryi, a species that is endemic to Yemen.[23] Similar techniques, using chloroplast DNA sequence comparison and ISSR profiling have also suggested that Aloe vera is closely related to Aloe forbesii, Aloe inermis, Aloe scobinifolia, Aloe sinkatana, and Aloe striata.[24] With the exception of South African species A. striata, these Aloe species are native to Socotra (Yemen), Somalia, and Sudan.[24] The lack of obvious natural populations of the species have led some authors to suggest that Aloe vera may be of hybrid origin.[25]
[edit] Distribution
The natural range of Aloe vera is unclear, as the species has been widely cultivated throughout the world. Naturalised stands of the species occur in the southern half of the Arabian peninsula, through North Africa (Morocco, Mauritania, Egypt) as well as Sudan and neighbouring countries, along with the Canary, Cape Verde, and Madeira Islands.[11] This distribution is somewhat similar to the one of Euphorbia balsamifera, Pistacia atlantica, and a few others, suggesting that a dry sclerophyl forest once covered large areas, but has been dramatically reduced due to desertification in the Sahara, leaving these few patches isolated. Several closely related species (or sometimes identical) can be found on the two extreme sides of the Sahara: Dragon trees and Aeonium being some of the most representative examples.
The species was introduced to China and various parts of southern Europe in the 17th century.[26] The species is widely naturalised elsewhere, occurring in temperate and tropical regions of Australia, Barbados, Belize, Nigeria, Paraguay and the US[19][27] It has been suggested that the actual species' distribution is the result of human cultivation and that the taxonomy could be doubtful too.[20]
Description
Aloe vera is a stemless or very short-stemmed succulent plant growing to 60–100 cm (24–39 in) tall,spreading by offsets. The leaves are thick and fleshy, green to grey-green, with some varieties showing white flecks on the upper and lower stem surfaces.[8] The margin of the leaf is serrated and has small white teeth. The flowers are produced in summer on a spike up to 90 cm (35 in) tall, each flower pendulous, with a yellow tubular corolla 2–3 cm (0.8–1.2 in) long.[8][9] Like other Aloe species, Aloe vera forms arbuscular mycorrhiza, a symbiosis that allows the plant better access to mineral nutrients in soil.[10]
[edit] Taxonomy and etymology
Spotted forms of Aloe vera are sometimes known as Aloe vera var. chinensis.
The species has a number of synonyms: A. barbadensis Mill., Aloe indica Royle, Aloe perfoliata L. var. vera and A. vulgaris Lam.,[11][12] and common names including Chinese Aloe, Indian Aloe, true Aloe, Barbados Aloe, burn Aloe, first aid plant.[9][13][14][15][16] The species name vera means "true" or "genuine."[13] Some literature identifies the white spotted form of Aloe vera as Aloe vera var. chinensis,[17][18] however, the species varies widely with regard to leaf spots [19] and it has been suggested that the spotted form of Aloe vera may be conspecific with A. massawana.[20] The species was first described by Carl Linnaeus in 1753 as Aloe perfoliata var. vera,[21] and was described again in 1768 by Nicolaas Laurens Burman as Aloe vera in Flora Indica on the 6th of April and by Philip Miller as Aloe barbadensis some ten days after Burman in the Gardener's Dictionary.[22]
Techniques based on DNA comparison suggest that Aloe vera is relatively closely related to Aloe perryi, a species that is endemic to Yemen.[23] Similar techniques, using chloroplast DNA sequence comparison and ISSR profiling have also suggested that Aloe vera is closely related to Aloe forbesii, Aloe inermis, Aloe scobinifolia, Aloe sinkatana, and Aloe striata.[24] With the exception of South African species A. striata, these Aloe species are native to Socotra (Yemen), Somalia, and Sudan.[24] The lack of obvious natural populations of the species have led some authors to suggest that Aloe vera may be of hybrid origin.[25]
[edit] Distribution
The natural range of Aloe vera is unclear, as the species has been widely cultivated throughout the world. Naturalised stands of the species occur in the southern half of the Arabian peninsula, through North Africa (Morocco, Mauritania, Egypt) as well as Sudan and neighbouring countries, along with the Canary, Cape Verde, and Madeira Islands.[11] This distribution is somewhat similar to the one of Euphorbia balsamifera, Pistacia atlantica, and a few others, suggesting that a dry sclerophyl forest once covered large areas, but has been dramatically reduced due to desertification in the Sahara, leaving these few patches isolated. Several closely related species (or sometimes identical) can be found on the two extreme sides of the Sahara: Dragon trees and Aeonium being some of the most representative examples.
The species was introduced to China and various parts of southern Europe in the 17th century.[26] The species is widely naturalised elsewhere, occurring in temperate and tropical regions of Australia, Barbados, Belize, Nigeria, Paraguay and the US[19][27] It has been suggested that the actual species' distribution is the result of human cultivation and that the taxonomy could be doubtful too.[20]
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Introduced plants in the indigenous Pharmacopoeia of Northern South America
Abstract
The intellectual property rights debate focuses on the flow of germplasm from developing tropical countries to developed temperate nations. Few investigators have addressed the converse. We discuss the abundance and importance of introduced plants in pharmacopoeias of northern South America. Introduced species commonly are employed as medicines throughout the region and include at least 216 Eurasian, North American, African, and Pacific species. Among the Shuar of lowland Ecuador, four introduced plants (Citrus aurantium, Cymbopogon citratus, Saccharum officinarum, and Zingiber officinale) are included in their most commonly prescribed remedies. The widespread use of introduced plants is due, in part, to the medicinal value of plants whose primary use is for food (e.g., Musa X paradisiacal Similarly, many introduced ornamentals also have therapeutic value (e.g., Hedychium coronarium). Other species have been introduced specifically as medicines (e.g., Aloe vera). Restrictions on the flow of germplasm and plant knowledge may protect the economic interests of governments and national industry. If applied bilaterally, however, constraints on the movement of plants will limit the continued evolution of traditional medicinal systems in areas where they are most needed.
El debate sobre los derechos de propiedad intelectual se enfoca principalmente en el movimiento de germoplasma desde los paises en vias de desarrollado de las regíones tropicales hacia los paises desarrollados de la zona templada. Pocos investigadores han examinado lo contrario. Discutimos la abundancia y la importancia de plantas introducidas en las farmacopeas del norte de América del Sur. El uso medicinal de plantas introducidas es mu común y incluye por lo menos 216 especies de Europa, Asia, América del Norte, Africa, y la regián Pacífica. Entre las Shuaras de las tierras bajas de Ecuador, cuatro plantas introducidas (Citrus aurantium, Cymbopogon citratus, Saccharum officinarum, and Zingiber officinale) estan incluidas en sus remedios más comunes. El extenso uso de plantas introducidas, es en gran parie, debido al valor medicinal de plantas que tienen su uso primario como alimento (e.g., Musa X paradisiaca). Muchas plantas ornamentales también tienen valor terapéutico (e.g., Hedychium coronarium). Otras especies han sido introducidas específicamente como medicinas (por ejemplo, Aloe vera). Restricciones en el movimiento de germoplasma y conocimiento respecto a plantas quizás protejan el interés económico de gobiernos y industrias nationales. Sin embargo, si se aplica en una manera bilateral, restriciones en el movimiento de plantas limitará la evolutión continuada de sistemas tradiconales de medicina en los regiones en donde son más necesarias.
The intellectual property rights debate focuses on the flow of germplasm from developing tropical countries to developed temperate nations. Few investigators have addressed the converse. We discuss the abundance and importance of introduced plants in pharmacopoeias of northern South America. Introduced species commonly are employed as medicines throughout the region and include at least 216 Eurasian, North American, African, and Pacific species. Among the Shuar of lowland Ecuador, four introduced plants (Citrus aurantium, Cymbopogon citratus, Saccharum officinarum, and Zingiber officinale) are included in their most commonly prescribed remedies. The widespread use of introduced plants is due, in part, to the medicinal value of plants whose primary use is for food (e.g., Musa X paradisiacal Similarly, many introduced ornamentals also have therapeutic value (e.g., Hedychium coronarium). Other species have been introduced specifically as medicines (e.g., Aloe vera). Restrictions on the flow of germplasm and plant knowledge may protect the economic interests of governments and national industry. If applied bilaterally, however, constraints on the movement of plants will limit the continued evolution of traditional medicinal systems in areas where they are most needed.
El debate sobre los derechos de propiedad intelectual se enfoca principalmente en el movimiento de germoplasma desde los paises en vias de desarrollado de las regíones tropicales hacia los paises desarrollados de la zona templada. Pocos investigadores han examinado lo contrario. Discutimos la abundancia y la importancia de plantas introducidas en las farmacopeas del norte de América del Sur. El uso medicinal de plantas introducidas es mu común y incluye por lo menos 216 especies de Europa, Asia, América del Norte, Africa, y la regián Pacífica. Entre las Shuaras de las tierras bajas de Ecuador, cuatro plantas introducidas (Citrus aurantium, Cymbopogon citratus, Saccharum officinarum, and Zingiber officinale) estan incluidas en sus remedios más comunes. El extenso uso de plantas introducidas, es en gran parie, debido al valor medicinal de plantas que tienen su uso primario como alimento (e.g., Musa X paradisiaca). Muchas plantas ornamentales también tienen valor terapéutico (e.g., Hedychium coronarium). Otras especies han sido introducidas específicamente como medicinas (por ejemplo, Aloe vera). Restricciones en el movimiento de germoplasma y conocimiento respecto a plantas quizás protejan el interés económico de gobiernos y industrias nationales. Sin embargo, si se aplica en una manera bilateral, restriciones en el movimiento de plantas limitará la evolutión continuada de sistemas tradiconales de medicina en los regiones en donde son más necesarias.
Tuesday, June 14, 2011
A WHITE GARDEN ROSE
A white garden rose can grab the eye just as quickly as a bright or crimson red rose. Although the majority of rose growing advice applies when growing white roses, there are one or two extra considerations you have to make.
Unlike other rose colors, the white garden rose relies on partial, rather than full sunlight. Although roses normally require a great deal of sunlight, white roses will look far better when they can grab the daylight of dawn or dusk. If this means placing the rose plant in a slightly cooler area, so much the better, because white garden rose plants do not require as much heat as other rose plants. If you would like to have roses in your garden, but you are worried that the cold climates in the winter could kill off your plant, you should consider buying a white garden rose plant. These are better equipped with dealing with cold temperatures compared to roses of other colors.
‘Iceberg’ is a white rose that is extremely easy to grow and keep. ‘Iceberg’ comes as a rose climber, so it will grow upwards, rather than outwards; as well as coming in a bush. However, both varieties produce an abundant amount of crisp white flowers that immediately grab the eye of anyone looking.
‘Bobbie James’ is a rambler white rose, and a favorite of both amateur and experienced gardeners. It has a potent fragrance, and the blossom like blooms are extremely eye catching in any and all gardens. Rambler roses differ from climbing roses, and it’s important that you find out about the plant before purchasing. Shopping online, at least for information, can help prevent plant purchases that simply weren’t meant to be.
The ‘Jeanne Moreau’ rose is perfect if you’re looking for a more classical white rose. This particular rose gives off an incredible fragrance, which lemon lovers will instantly recognize and love. The rose is also quite hardy, and has lots of foliage.
‘Snow Sunblaze’ is a stunning white garden rose, which grows no higher than 12 inches tall. They are incredibly robust for a rose, and they offer a clean white rose. Once in bloom, you can bring this little delight into the home for up to four weeks, allowing you to add a touch of natural purity to your home. ‘Teardrop’ is another white garden rose that can be potted; it’s flowers are very delicate and the flower blossoms regularly during the summer months. It’s light fragrance makes it a real pleasure to have both indoors and outdoors.
There are a variety of white garden roses available, and it pays to check that the plant you desire suits your climate and intended spot. Hybrid rose plants allow even amateur gardeners to successfully grow beautiful rose blooms, and the white garden rose is a great rose to start with, because of it’s harder nature. Don’t be afraid of including the white garden rose in your choice of flower, and bring a classic to your garden.
Unlike other rose colors, the white garden rose relies on partial, rather than full sunlight. Although roses normally require a great deal of sunlight, white roses will look far better when they can grab the daylight of dawn or dusk. If this means placing the rose plant in a slightly cooler area, so much the better, because white garden rose plants do not require as much heat as other rose plants. If you would like to have roses in your garden, but you are worried that the cold climates in the winter could kill off your plant, you should consider buying a white garden rose plant. These are better equipped with dealing with cold temperatures compared to roses of other colors.
‘Iceberg’ is a white rose that is extremely easy to grow and keep. ‘Iceberg’ comes as a rose climber, so it will grow upwards, rather than outwards; as well as coming in a bush. However, both varieties produce an abundant amount of crisp white flowers that immediately grab the eye of anyone looking.
‘Bobbie James’ is a rambler white rose, and a favorite of both amateur and experienced gardeners. It has a potent fragrance, and the blossom like blooms are extremely eye catching in any and all gardens. Rambler roses differ from climbing roses, and it’s important that you find out about the plant before purchasing. Shopping online, at least for information, can help prevent plant purchases that simply weren’t meant to be.
The ‘Jeanne Moreau’ rose is perfect if you’re looking for a more classical white rose. This particular rose gives off an incredible fragrance, which lemon lovers will instantly recognize and love. The rose is also quite hardy, and has lots of foliage.
‘Snow Sunblaze’ is a stunning white garden rose, which grows no higher than 12 inches tall. They are incredibly robust for a rose, and they offer a clean white rose. Once in bloom, you can bring this little delight into the home for up to four weeks, allowing you to add a touch of natural purity to your home. ‘Teardrop’ is another white garden rose that can be potted; it’s flowers are very delicate and the flower blossoms regularly during the summer months. It’s light fragrance makes it a real pleasure to have both indoors and outdoors.
There are a variety of white garden roses available, and it pays to check that the plant you desire suits your climate and intended spot. Hybrid rose plants allow even amateur gardeners to successfully grow beautiful rose blooms, and the white garden rose is a great rose to start with, because of it’s harder nature. Don’t be afraid of including the white garden rose in your choice of flower, and bring a classic to your garden.
Monday, June 13, 2011
Jasmine Gardening
Jasmine (Jasminum) is a genus of shrubs and vines in the olive family Oleaceae, comprising about 200 species. It is native to tropical and warm temperate regions of Europe, Asia and Africa. Jasmine means 'Gift from God', from Persian yasmin.
Jasmine is cultivated for its fragrant flowers, and is enjoyed in the garden, as a house plant, and as cut flowers. The fragrant flowers are worn in the hair by women in southern and southeast Asia. The flowers are opened at night , when the temperature is low, and can be plucked in the morning.
Jasmine tea is consumed in China, where it is called jasmine-flower tea. Flowers and tea are combined in a machine that control temperature and humidity. It takes about four hours for the tea to absorb the fragrance and flavor of the jasmine blossoms. This process may be repeated for as many as seven times to produce highest grades of Jasmine tea. In Japan, jasmine tea is known as Sanpin Cha.
Jasmine syrup is made from an extract of jasmine flowers, and the French are known for their jasmine syrup. In the United States, French-made jasmine syrup is used to make jasmine scones and marshmellows.
India, Egypt, China, and Morocco are producers of jasmine essential oil. The oil is expensive due to the large quantity of flowers needed to produce a small amount of oil. Jasmine flowers are collected at night because their scent of jasmine is powerful after dark. The flowers are laid out on cotton cloths soaked in olive oil for a few days, and then extracted leaving the true jasmine essence.
Jasmine absolute is used in perfume, aromatherapy, and incense. Absolute is similar to essential oil. It is a concentrated, highly-aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants through the use of solvent extraction techniques or the more labor-intensive method of enfleurage. Whereas essential oils can be typically obtained through steam distillation.
Jasmine sambac is the national flower of Indonesia, where it goes by the name 'Melati Putih'. It is also the most important flower in wedding ceremonies for ethnic Indonesians, especially in Java island.
In Pakistan, Jasminum officinale is the national flower, and is known by 'Chambeli' or 'Yasmine'.
In Philippines, jasmine is known as 'Sampaguita' , and is usually strung on garlands, used to adorn religious images.
In Hawaii, Jasminum fluminense is considered as an invasive species, so as Jasminum dichotomum in Florida.
In Thailand, jasmine flower is an symbol of the mother.
Jasminum auriculatum
Jasminum auriculatum
Author: J.M.Garg (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum azoricum
Jasminum azoricum
Author: Daniel Feliciano (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum fruticans
Jasminum fruticans
Author: Javier martin (public domain)
Jasminum grandiflorum
Jasminum grandiflorum
Author: Hedwig Storch (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum mesnyi
Jasminum mesnyi
Author: BotBln (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic)
Jasminum multiflorum
Jasminum multiflorum
Author: Forest & Kim Starr (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum nudiflorum
Jasminum nudiflorum
Author: Wildfeuer (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic)
Jasminum sambac
Jasminum sambac
Author: Scott Zona (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic)
Jasminum polyanthum
Jasminum polyanthum
Author: KENPEI (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan)
Jasminum laurifolium
Jasminum laurifolium
Author: Monocromatico (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0)
The making of Jasmine tea
The making of Jasmine tea
Author: Daqve Dahl (public domain)
Jasmine is cultivated for its fragrant flowers, and is enjoyed in the garden, as a house plant, and as cut flowers. The fragrant flowers are worn in the hair by women in southern and southeast Asia. The flowers are opened at night , when the temperature is low, and can be plucked in the morning.
Jasmine tea is consumed in China, where it is called jasmine-flower tea. Flowers and tea are combined in a machine that control temperature and humidity. It takes about four hours for the tea to absorb the fragrance and flavor of the jasmine blossoms. This process may be repeated for as many as seven times to produce highest grades of Jasmine tea. In Japan, jasmine tea is known as Sanpin Cha.
Jasmine syrup is made from an extract of jasmine flowers, and the French are known for their jasmine syrup. In the United States, French-made jasmine syrup is used to make jasmine scones and marshmellows.
India, Egypt, China, and Morocco are producers of jasmine essential oil. The oil is expensive due to the large quantity of flowers needed to produce a small amount of oil. Jasmine flowers are collected at night because their scent of jasmine is powerful after dark. The flowers are laid out on cotton cloths soaked in olive oil for a few days, and then extracted leaving the true jasmine essence.
Jasmine absolute is used in perfume, aromatherapy, and incense. Absolute is similar to essential oil. It is a concentrated, highly-aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants through the use of solvent extraction techniques or the more labor-intensive method of enfleurage. Whereas essential oils can be typically obtained through steam distillation.
Jasmine sambac is the national flower of Indonesia, where it goes by the name 'Melati Putih'. It is also the most important flower in wedding ceremonies for ethnic Indonesians, especially in Java island.
In Pakistan, Jasminum officinale is the national flower, and is known by 'Chambeli' or 'Yasmine'.
In Philippines, jasmine is known as 'Sampaguita' , and is usually strung on garlands, used to adorn religious images.
In Hawaii, Jasminum fluminense is considered as an invasive species, so as Jasminum dichotomum in Florida.
In Thailand, jasmine flower is an symbol of the mother.
Jasminum auriculatum
Jasminum auriculatum
Author: J.M.Garg (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum azoricum
Jasminum azoricum
Author: Daniel Feliciano (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum fruticans
Jasminum fruticans
Author: Javier martin (public domain)
Jasminum grandiflorum
Jasminum grandiflorum
Author: Hedwig Storch (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum mesnyi
Jasminum mesnyi
Author: BotBln (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic)
Jasminum multiflorum
Jasminum multiflorum
Author: Forest & Kim Starr (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0-unported)
Jasminum nudiflorum
Jasminum nudiflorum
Author: Wildfeuer (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic)
Jasminum sambac
Jasminum sambac
Author: Scott Zona (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic)
Jasminum polyanthum
Jasminum polyanthum
Author: KENPEI (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan)
Jasminum laurifolium
Jasminum laurifolium
Author: Monocromatico (Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 3.0)
The making of Jasmine tea
The making of Jasmine tea
Author: Daqve Dahl (public domain)
Sunday, June 12, 2011
Cultivation notes
All jasmines need a fertile, well-drained soil in full or partial sun. Summer jasmine needs a sheltered spot, full sun and a south- or south west-facing aspect. Winter jasmine is more tolerant of partial shade and a south east or north west aspect. North and north east aspects are best avoided.
Frost hardy species are fine in an unheated conservatory or a cold greenhouse kept frost-free with a small heater. Tender species may require a minimum night temperature of 13-15ºC (55-59ºF).
Jasmines make lovely container specimens. Ensure you use a container with good drainage holes, cover the holes with crocks or grit, and fill with John Innes No 2. Leave space at the top for watering, and place the pot in bright but filtered light.
Watering and feeding
Water freely during spring and summer, when plants are in active growth. Reduce watering in winter. Outdoor plants may not need watering in winter, unless the weather is extremely dry or the ground frozen (in which case watering with lukewarm water may help). Indoor and glasshouse plants need only sparse watering in winter.
Feed containerised jasmine plants monthly with a high potassium liquid feed (such as tomato fertiliser). Border specimens can be top dressed with a balanced, granular fertiliser such as Growmore, or with a high potassium feed such as sulphate of potash. Seaweed feeds and wood ash are potential organic sources of potassium.
Hardiness
Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine) is fully hardy and can be grown outdoors throughout the UK.
Jasminum officinale and J. officinale f. affine (syn. J. grandiflorum), the common summer jasmine, is frost hardy and suitable for outdoor cultivation against a sunny, sheltered wall in mild UK regions only. Elsewhere, it can be grown as a conservatory or glasshouse climber. The same applies to J. fruticans, J. humile, J. beesianum and J. x stephanense.
Jasminum fruticans and J.humile are evergreen or semi-evergreen. J. officinale and J. x stephanense are generally deciduous in the UK. J. beesianum is deciduous or semi-evergreen, depending on the local climate.
Jasminum parkeri, a dwarf shrubby jasmine from the Himalayas, is borderline fully hardy. It can be grown outdoors in mild areas, but is unsuitable for outdoor cultivation in cold areas and in most areas of northern England and Scotland.
The following jasmines are all half-hardy or tender, so must be grown indoors, or in a heated conservatory or glasshouse: J. rex, J. capense (syn. J. angulare),
J. floridum, J. mesnyi, J. odoratissimum, J. polyanthum, J. sambac,
J. dichotomum and J. azoricum.
Frost hardy species are fine in an unheated conservatory or a cold greenhouse kept frost-free with a small heater. Tender species may require a minimum night temperature of 13-15ºC (55-59ºF).
Jasmines make lovely container specimens. Ensure you use a container with good drainage holes, cover the holes with crocks or grit, and fill with John Innes No 2. Leave space at the top for watering, and place the pot in bright but filtered light.
Watering and feeding
Water freely during spring and summer, when plants are in active growth. Reduce watering in winter. Outdoor plants may not need watering in winter, unless the weather is extremely dry or the ground frozen (in which case watering with lukewarm water may help). Indoor and glasshouse plants need only sparse watering in winter.
Feed containerised jasmine plants monthly with a high potassium liquid feed (such as tomato fertiliser). Border specimens can be top dressed with a balanced, granular fertiliser such as Growmore, or with a high potassium feed such as sulphate of potash. Seaweed feeds and wood ash are potential organic sources of potassium.
Hardiness
Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine) is fully hardy and can be grown outdoors throughout the UK.
Jasminum officinale and J. officinale f. affine (syn. J. grandiflorum), the common summer jasmine, is frost hardy and suitable for outdoor cultivation against a sunny, sheltered wall in mild UK regions only. Elsewhere, it can be grown as a conservatory or glasshouse climber. The same applies to J. fruticans, J. humile, J. beesianum and J. x stephanense.
Jasminum fruticans and J.humile are evergreen or semi-evergreen. J. officinale and J. x stephanense are generally deciduous in the UK. J. beesianum is deciduous or semi-evergreen, depending on the local climate.
Jasminum parkeri, a dwarf shrubby jasmine from the Himalayas, is borderline fully hardy. It can be grown outdoors in mild areas, but is unsuitable for outdoor cultivation in cold areas and in most areas of northern England and Scotland.
The following jasmines are all half-hardy or tender, so must be grown indoors, or in a heated conservatory or glasshouse: J. rex, J. capense (syn. J. angulare),
J. floridum, J. mesnyi, J. odoratissimum, J. polyanthum, J. sambac,
J. dichotomum and J. azoricum.
Rose Gardening - Tips for Choosing and Growing Roses in Your Garden
What better way to enjoy the romance of the garden than by growing roses? Rose gardening has gotten a bad wrap in recent years. Growing roses doesn’t have to be a challenge. Chose the right roses for your growing conditions and you’re half way to having a spectacular rose garden. Learn the basics of caring for roses and your rose bushes will be the envy of the neighborhood.
Here, in a nutshell, are the 4 magic ingredients for making your roses happy and your rose garden a reality.
Rose Growing Tips: Soil, Irrigation, Spacing and Sun
Choosing a Rose Bush
Thank goodness there are thousands of rose varieties; more every year. Rose gardeners have all sorts of hopes for their rose gardens. Whether you want a prize winning hybrid tea rose, old fashioned cabbage roses, sprawling ramblers and climbers or just a whiff of the way you remember roses smelling, there’s a rose for you.
Fragrant Roses
Hybrid Tea Roses
Tips on Growing Hybrid Tea Roses
Roses for Shady Areas
Growing Mini-Roses
Rose Gardening: Caring for Your Roses
It’s true there are certain pests and diseases that roses are simply prone to. At some point, every rose gardener will encounter black spot, Japanese beetles, rose chafers and mildew. Don’t let that deter you from rose gardening. It is possible to control problems or to avoid them all together. It’s even possible to rose garden organically. It just takes regular care and some gardening common sense.
Preventing Rose Problems Before They Occur
Diseases of Roses - Avoiding and Dealing with Common Rose Diseases
Organic Rose Gardening
Winter Rose Care - Preparing Your Roses for Winter
Pruning Roses
Perhaps the most confusing and intimidating aspect of rose gardening is pruning. How to prune, when to prune? This is just a matter of knowing what type of rose bush you have and then gaining a little experience. Don’t worry, it’s harder to kill a rose bush by pruning than by neglect.
When and How to Prune Your Roses.
Dealing with Rose Suckers.
Enjoying Your Rose Garden
You have to stop and smell the roses. I’d say there’s no sense in having a rose garden if you’re not going to enjoy it, but there’s really no way that could happen. No other flower elicits such universal pleasure. So here are some tips for sharing the joy of roses.
Here, in a nutshell, are the 4 magic ingredients for making your roses happy and your rose garden a reality.
Rose Growing Tips: Soil, Irrigation, Spacing and Sun
Choosing a Rose Bush
Thank goodness there are thousands of rose varieties; more every year. Rose gardeners have all sorts of hopes for their rose gardens. Whether you want a prize winning hybrid tea rose, old fashioned cabbage roses, sprawling ramblers and climbers or just a whiff of the way you remember roses smelling, there’s a rose for you.
Fragrant Roses
Hybrid Tea Roses
Tips on Growing Hybrid Tea Roses
Roses for Shady Areas
Growing Mini-Roses
Rose Gardening: Caring for Your Roses
It’s true there are certain pests and diseases that roses are simply prone to. At some point, every rose gardener will encounter black spot, Japanese beetles, rose chafers and mildew. Don’t let that deter you from rose gardening. It is possible to control problems or to avoid them all together. It’s even possible to rose garden organically. It just takes regular care and some gardening common sense.
Preventing Rose Problems Before They Occur
Diseases of Roses - Avoiding and Dealing with Common Rose Diseases
Organic Rose Gardening
Winter Rose Care - Preparing Your Roses for Winter
Pruning Roses
Perhaps the most confusing and intimidating aspect of rose gardening is pruning. How to prune, when to prune? This is just a matter of knowing what type of rose bush you have and then gaining a little experience. Don’t worry, it’s harder to kill a rose bush by pruning than by neglect.
When and How to Prune Your Roses.
Dealing with Rose Suckers.
Enjoying Your Rose Garden
You have to stop and smell the roses. I’d say there’s no sense in having a rose garden if you’re not going to enjoy it, but there’s really no way that could happen. No other flower elicits such universal pleasure. So here are some tips for sharing the joy of roses.
Friday, June 10, 2011
Different Rose Types
All the different types of roses can cause confusion for many people and possibly deters many people from growing roses. The whole are of classification of roses is a touchy subject for some. The American Rose Society has introduced a classifiacation system that goes a long way towards clearing up the confusion. Here is their
classification of different types of roses
and how the All American Rose Society classifies new types of roses.
On this page I wil give my simplified version of the different rose types which I think works fine for the average gardener. At the bottom of this page you can find a links to a page with more information describing the different types of roses. However, I think that the following explanation covers the basics well enough for the ordinary gardener looking for information.
Hybrid Tea Rose Type
These types are often referred to as large flowered roses. They flower from early summer until the first frost. The blooms appear in flushes of full, double flowers borne in small clusters at the tip of each stem. For those whoare into growing roses for competition these are the types of roses that are grown. More information on
Hybrid Tea Roses
Floribunda Rose Type
As of late people are now referring to these types as cluster flowered. There blooms appear on many small branches at the end of the stem. generally the flowers are small. These are available in single or double, although the double flowered type will not produce the quality of bloom associated with the single. These will flower freely all summer long. More information on Floribunda Roses.
Standard Rose Type or Rose Trees
These are floribunda or hybrid tea roses grown on a tall single stem. Generally they are used for formal landscaping or to inject a little height. usually they are more expensive than the other types of roses. Here is another article on rose trees.
Climbing Roses
These are probably most peoples favorites as they can totally transform the appearance of a house, shed, a wall, in fact anywhere that could do with a makeover. There are a few diferent types of these roses with my favorite being the repeat flowering type that flowers through the entire summer. Ramblers will not do that and many other climbing roses will not repeat either. The stems are usually a lot stiffer than rambling roses so you would ned to train them in early. More information about Climbing Roses.
Rambling Roses
Like the rambler types these roses are excellent for pergolas and rambling through trees. it is not a good idea to grow these rosesagainst a wall as the lack of air circulation only encourages mildew. The blooms usually only appear in one dramatic flush in early summer. Their stems are softer and more supple than climbers and will need support. Additional article on Climbing Roses.
Shrub Rose Types
This grouping contains a whole range of different rose types. Growing roses like this involves very little pruning for they should be grown as their name suggests, as shrubs. The beauty of these rose types is the wide range of options they provide from delightful scents to double or single blooms and generally disease resistant. They can be once blooming in early summer or there are the repeat flowering types. They can be a little on the large side for smaller gardens but as with all roses there are a few exceptions. Here is another article on Shrub Roses.
classification of different types of roses
and how the All American Rose Society classifies new types of roses.
On this page I wil give my simplified version of the different rose types which I think works fine for the average gardener. At the bottom of this page you can find a links to a page with more information describing the different types of roses. However, I think that the following explanation covers the basics well enough for the ordinary gardener looking for information.
Hybrid Tea Rose Type
These types are often referred to as large flowered roses. They flower from early summer until the first frost. The blooms appear in flushes of full, double flowers borne in small clusters at the tip of each stem. For those whoare into growing roses for competition these are the types of roses that are grown. More information on
Hybrid Tea Roses
Floribunda Rose Type
As of late people are now referring to these types as cluster flowered. There blooms appear on many small branches at the end of the stem. generally the flowers are small. These are available in single or double, although the double flowered type will not produce the quality of bloom associated with the single. These will flower freely all summer long. More information on Floribunda Roses.
Standard Rose Type or Rose Trees
These are floribunda or hybrid tea roses grown on a tall single stem. Generally they are used for formal landscaping or to inject a little height. usually they are more expensive than the other types of roses. Here is another article on rose trees.
Climbing Roses
These are probably most peoples favorites as they can totally transform the appearance of a house, shed, a wall, in fact anywhere that could do with a makeover. There are a few diferent types of these roses with my favorite being the repeat flowering type that flowers through the entire summer. Ramblers will not do that and many other climbing roses will not repeat either. The stems are usually a lot stiffer than rambling roses so you would ned to train them in early. More information about Climbing Roses.
Rambling Roses
Like the rambler types these roses are excellent for pergolas and rambling through trees. it is not a good idea to grow these rosesagainst a wall as the lack of air circulation only encourages mildew. The blooms usually only appear in one dramatic flush in early summer. Their stems are softer and more supple than climbers and will need support. Additional article on Climbing Roses.
Shrub Rose Types
This grouping contains a whole range of different rose types. Growing roses like this involves very little pruning for they should be grown as their name suggests, as shrubs. The beauty of these rose types is the wide range of options they provide from delightful scents to double or single blooms and generally disease resistant. They can be once blooming in early summer or there are the repeat flowering types. They can be a little on the large side for smaller gardens but as with all roses there are a few exceptions. Here is another article on Shrub Roses.
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