Rose Garden, commonly known as the The Rose Garden Arena, is the primary indoor sports arena in Portland, Oregon, United States. It is suitable for large indoor events of all sorts, including basketball, ice hockey, rodeos, circuses, conventions, ice shows, concerts, and dramatic productions. The arena has a capacity of 19,980 spectators when configured for basketball; it holds smaller crowds when configured for other events. The arena is equipped with state-of-the-art acoustics and other amenities.[2]
It is owned by Vulcan Inc., a holding company owned by Paul Allen, and is currently managed by Anschutz Entertainment Group and AEG Live. The primary tenant is the Portland Trail Blazers NBA franchise, also owned by Allen. The other major tenant of the building today is the major junior hockey franchise Portland Winterhawks of the Western Hockey League, which splits its schedule with the Memorial Coliseum next door. In addition to the Blazers and Winterhawks, several other professional sports franchises, and the Portland State University men's basketball team, either currently play home games in the Rose Garden, or have done so in the past. In addition, the Rose Garden is a popular venue for concerts and other artistic productions.[3]
Construction on the Rose Garden began in 1993, and the arena opened on October 12, 1995. The arena cost US$262 million to build; construction was financed with funds obtained by a variety of sources, including the City of Portland, Allen's personal fortune, and $155 million in bonds issued by a consortium of mutual funds and insurance companies.[4] These bonds would become the subject of an acrimonious 2004 bankruptcy in which the Oregon Arena Corporation, the holding company which owned the arena at the time, would forfeit title to the Rose Garden in lieu of repaying the bonds per the payment terms.[5] Allen would later repurchase the arena from the creditors in 2007.[6]
Description
For more details on transportation and parking, see Rose Quarter#Transportation and parking.
The Rose Garden is a multipurpose arena which is suitable for numerous indoor sports, including basketball, ice hockey, arena football, and lacrosse, as well as for hosting other events such as concerts, conventions, and circuses.[2] The arena is located in a sports and entertainment district known as the Rose Quarter, a parcel of land in inner northeast Portland which also includes the Memorial Coliseum arena, as well as several parking structures, restaurants, and other amenities.
[edit] Name
The official name of the facility is "Rose Garden"; though the arena is commonly known as the "Rose Garden Arena" to disambiguate it from the International Rose Test Garden, also located in Portland. The name was chosen both to reflect Portland's reputation as the Rose City,[7] and to reflect the importance to basketball heritage of Boston Garden and Madison Square Garden arenas in Boston and New York City, respectively. When the name was selected, the remainder of the former Coliseum grounds were given the name "Rose Quarter".
On December 12, 2007, the Trail Blazers and Vulcan announced that they were seeking a corporate partner to grant naming rights for the facility, with the goal of a new name being available for the Blazers' 2008–09 season.[8] Until then, the Rose Garden remains one of only a handful of NBA facilities for which naming rights have not been sold.[9] Currently, corporate sponsorship is offered on four "media totems" at each of the facility's main entrances.[7]
[edit] Structure and architecture
The Rose Garden is a precast concrete-framed structure with a roof made up of skeletal steel. The arena structure encloses a total of over 785,000 square feet (72,900 m2), on eight levels, five of which are open to the public. The building is 140 feet (43 m), from the event floor to the pinnacle of the saddle-shaped roof.[2] The arena includes a 60 by 40 feet (18 × 12 m) permanent stage, and a 200 by 85 feet (61 × 26 m) ice rink.[10]
The building is composed of over 48,000 cubic yards (37,000 m3) of concrete, and over 9,700 short tons (8,800 t) of steel. The exterior is composed of over 29,000 square feet (2,700 m2) of glass, 17,500 square feet (1,630 m2) of plaster, 52,000 square feet (4,800 m2) of architectural precast, 39,000 square feet (3,600 m2) of insulation, and 13,654 square feet (1,268.5 m2) of steel louvres.[2][11]
The building, designed by architecture firm Ellerbe Becket, has been criticized by some in Portland's architectural community. A survey of local architects and planners was conducted by the Portland Tribune, and subsequently the Rose Garden was listed among the five ugliest buildings in the city.[12]
[edit] Seating
Inside of Rose Garden Arena, circa 2001
The arena has a total of over 14,000 permanent seats arranged in two bowls. An additional 1540 permanent seats are found in the arena's 70 skyboxes. Over 4200 portable seats may or may not be installed, depending on the arena's configuration.[10] When configured for basketball, the arena has a capacity of 19,980, and can accommodate a total of up to 20,580 patrons with standing room. Prior to the 1998 NBA season the capacity was reduced to 19,980 from the original 21,400 spectators.[13] When configured for hockey or lacrosse, capacity decreases to 17,544. The arena supports numerous other configurations for events such as concerts, monster trucks, and circuses.[2] The seating below the suites, known as the lower bowl, is further divided into the 100 and 200 levels. The upper bowl seats, above the suites, are the 300 level.[2]
[edit] Skyboxes and suites
The arena features 70 skyboxes, each with a seating capacity of 22 guests. Skyboxes include amenities such as a wet bar, catering, a private restroom, multiple television monitors, and a sound system.[2] Skyboxes may be rented on a yearly[14] or single-event[15] basis; yearly renters of skyboxes are given access to all Rose Garden events. The arena also features modular party suites, which can be configured either as a pair of 44-person Super Suites, or as one 88-person mega suite.[16]
[edit] Theater of the Clouds
For smaller, more intimate events, the Rose Garden can be placed into a configuration known as the "Theater of the Clouds". This configuration, part of a trend of large arenas having smaller theater configurations,[17] places the stage at center court, and utilizes the western side of the arena.[18] Custom floor-to-ceiling theater curtains are draped at the edges of the seating area, creating a more intimate setting. As of 2004, on average 10 events per year have been held in the Theater of the Clouds configuration.[19] The Theater of the Clouds configuration seats 6,500; with 16 of the 70 luxury boxes being usable.[20]
[edit] Amenities
Two concourses, the 100 level and the 300 level, are open to the ticket-buying public during events; the 100 level concourse provides access to the lower bowl (including the 200-level seats); the 300-level concourse provides access to the upper bowl. A third concourse, the 200 level, provides access to guest services such as a sports bar, a barbecue grill, an executive banquet facility, and several outdoor terraces, including two which permit smoking. A fourth concourse, known as Suite Level, provides access to the skyboxes and is restricted to patrons who have skybox admission. All concourses provide a variety of concession stands. The arena also features 32 public restrooms; women's toilets outnumber men's toilets 3 to 1.[2] There are wi-fi hotspots throughout the arena.[16] The concourses are decorated with historical memorabilia.[21]
The primary scoreboard is a Mitsubishi-manufactured high definition video scoreboard. This scoreboard, which hangs from the ceiling over center court, features four 15 feet by 22.5 feet (4.5 m by 6.75 m) video screens, among the biggest in the NBA.[16] The arena also features over 650 television monitors placed throughout,[2] showing the action on court. Auxiliary scoreboards located both in the arena itself and the concourses provide statistical information, including "hustle" statistics for basketball (rebounds, blocked shots, and steals). Three media towers, one at each main entrance, provide video of other games in the NBA.[21]
[edit] Acoustics
A unique feature found in no other multi-purpose arena what is known as the "acoustical cloud". The acoustical cloud is a set of 160 rotating acoustic panels suspended from the Rose Garden ceiling, and were intended to recreate the roar of noise that made the old Memorial Coliseum one of the loudest buildings in the NBA. One side of each 10 feet by 10 feet (3 m by 3 m) panel reflects sound, while the other side absorbs sound. Each panel is shaped like an airplane wing, and is 8 inches (20 cm) thick at the center and 4 inches (10 cm) thick at the edges. The effect during Blazers games is to absorb the noise from the upper levels and reflect it back down to the court.
The panels permit the acoustics of the arena to be adjusted according to the requirements of the event. For smaller events in which only the lower bowl of the arena is used, the panels can be lowered to further improve the sound and increase the intimacy of the arena. The acoustical cloud cost US$2 million to design and install.[22] The arena is also equipped with a JBL sound system.[16] The acoustics of the Rose Garden have been widely praised compared to similar venues.[19]
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Holderness House
Summergangs Hall became the property of the brothers B.M. and W.E. Jalland in 1838. The old house was pulled down and the present house in an Elizabethan style, was built and named Holderness House. It was built to designs by James Clephan of London by the builders, Messrs Hutchinson of Hull. Holderness House has stone vaulted cellars and the entrance has stairs up to the ground floor. The Holderness Road end of the farm lane was incorporated into the Holderness House grounds and another access road made for the farm, although this doubling of the size of the grounds might have been done by a previous owner. The Holderness House grounds then extended over what are now Jalland Street, Village Road and Laburnum Avenue and extended back almost to where Maple Grove now is. A lodge (this was the one mentioned in Blashill's 'Evidences Relating to East Hull' although it had been demolished long before the book was published in 1903) was built on Holderness Road near where Jalland Street now is and, from here, the drive turned right to run parallel to Holderness Road and then turned left to go along the elm-lined avenue. Eventually the drive left the avenue and swung round to the right towards the Holderness House stone stairway. There were many statues in the grounds and might have been those in the grounds of Summergangs Hall. On the 1888-89 Ordnance Survey Map, twelve statues and a sun- dial are shown.
Holderness House from the S.W.
Holderness House from the South West
The far end of the elm-lined avenue, which ran along where the bottom of the gardens of 42 to 80 Village road now are, was in the 19th century a shady walk in the Holderness House grounds. At the end of the avenue were two iron gates, which had been brought from Newark Castle and were, perhaps, 800 years old according to Sheehan's 'History of Hull'. The gates were set in two stone arches. These stone arches were donated to the Hull Corporation and removed to East Park but, on 27th November 1906, the Corporation's East Park Sub-Committee inspected the remains of the ancient stone archway presented to the Corporation by Mrs. Jalland and it was resolved that owing to the expense that would be incurred, the Sub-Committee consider it undesirable to erect the remains of a gateway as originally proposed; and that the Superintendent be authorised to make such use of the remains in connection with rocks at the Park as he may consider desirable.
Holderness House from the S.E.
Holderness House from the South East
Boswell Middleton Jalland was Mayor of Hull in 1836 and 1846 and he was a leading local Liberal. His brother, William Empson Jalland, was Sheriff of Hull in 1842. James Clay, the Hull M.P., often visited Holderness House. Liberal Party events were held in the grounds of Holderness House in the 1840s and people strolled along the elm-lined avenue. Boswell Jalland was called the Adonis of Holderness House and he remained a bachelor until he attended the Liberal Party Conference at Brighton when he was 61. He married Emily Williams, 22 years old and the only daughter of Mr. John Williams of Penlee, Devon, at Brighton on 10th April 1851. When he returned to Hull after the conference with his young wife, local Tories had a lot to say.
Boswell and Emily Jalland had four children, born in 1852, 1853, 1855 and 1861, named Emily, Boswell George, Walter Clay and Gerald William. Boswell Jalland was 71 when his youngest son was born. It would seem that B.M. Jalland acquired his brother's share in the Holderness House estate in 1868 and was then the sole owner. Mr B.M. Jalland died on 29th September 1880 aged 90 but his widow continued to live at Holderness House for many years. Boswell Jalland had left the Holderness House Estate in trust for his children with his wife as trustee and life tenant.
The Holderness Road lodge was demolished in the mid 1880s and part of the Holderness House grounds was sold for the building of Jalland Street, some shops and Chestnut Villas (now 365-371 Holderness Road), where Joseph Rank and Alfred Gelder occupied opposite ends of the block at the time of the 1891 census. At 1 Chestnut Villas, now Annisons & Boddy's undertakers, seven people were recorded in the 1891 census. They were the architect, W, Alfred Gelder, his wife and niece, three children and two domestic servants. At 4 Chestnut Villas, now 371 Holderness Road, thirteen people were listed in the census. They were the miller, Joseph Rank, his wife and her sister, six children, a school governess, a sick nurse, a nursemaid and a servant. Some of them were there as Mrs. Rank had given birth to a baby a month earlier. The two-year old child, Joseph A. Rank, became famous later in life as J. Arthur Rank, the film magnate and head of the Rank Organisation, eventually becoming Lord Rank.
At Holderness House, there were eight residents recorded in the 1891 census. Mrs. Emily Jalland was aged 62. Her unmarried sons, Walter Clay and Gerald William were aged 35 and 30. They were all described as living on their own means. There were also four servants and a footman. Like Queen Victoria, Mrs. Jalland always wore black as a widow and the lifestyle at Holderness House must have been very subdued compared with what it had been like in the 1850s.
Around 1900, when Boswell George Jalland was living at Lambwath Hall, Sutton, and his sister, Emily, had married a Mr. Webster, Holderness House was regarded by some as the seat of Walter Clay Jalland but his mother, as the trustee, really controlled the Estate. For over twenty years, Holderness House had no lodge, and the grounds became overgrown. When small boys went into the grounds to collect conkers, Mrs. Jalland used to chase them away herself. In 1906, the Jalland Trustees applied to the Corporation to construct a road on the north-west side of Holderness Road parallel to Jalland Street. This was agreed to but the road was not immediately constructed. Some land was put up for sale.
Holderness House from the S.W.
Holderness House from the South West
The far end of the elm-lined avenue, which ran along where the bottom of the gardens of 42 to 80 Village road now are, was in the 19th century a shady walk in the Holderness House grounds. At the end of the avenue were two iron gates, which had been brought from Newark Castle and were, perhaps, 800 years old according to Sheehan's 'History of Hull'. The gates were set in two stone arches. These stone arches were donated to the Hull Corporation and removed to East Park but, on 27th November 1906, the Corporation's East Park Sub-Committee inspected the remains of the ancient stone archway presented to the Corporation by Mrs. Jalland and it was resolved that owing to the expense that would be incurred, the Sub-Committee consider it undesirable to erect the remains of a gateway as originally proposed; and that the Superintendent be authorised to make such use of the remains in connection with rocks at the Park as he may consider desirable.
Holderness House from the S.E.
Holderness House from the South East
Boswell Middleton Jalland was Mayor of Hull in 1836 and 1846 and he was a leading local Liberal. His brother, William Empson Jalland, was Sheriff of Hull in 1842. James Clay, the Hull M.P., often visited Holderness House. Liberal Party events were held in the grounds of Holderness House in the 1840s and people strolled along the elm-lined avenue. Boswell Jalland was called the Adonis of Holderness House and he remained a bachelor until he attended the Liberal Party Conference at Brighton when he was 61. He married Emily Williams, 22 years old and the only daughter of Mr. John Williams of Penlee, Devon, at Brighton on 10th April 1851. When he returned to Hull after the conference with his young wife, local Tories had a lot to say.
Boswell and Emily Jalland had four children, born in 1852, 1853, 1855 and 1861, named Emily, Boswell George, Walter Clay and Gerald William. Boswell Jalland was 71 when his youngest son was born. It would seem that B.M. Jalland acquired his brother's share in the Holderness House estate in 1868 and was then the sole owner. Mr B.M. Jalland died on 29th September 1880 aged 90 but his widow continued to live at Holderness House for many years. Boswell Jalland had left the Holderness House Estate in trust for his children with his wife as trustee and life tenant.
The Holderness Road lodge was demolished in the mid 1880s and part of the Holderness House grounds was sold for the building of Jalland Street, some shops and Chestnut Villas (now 365-371 Holderness Road), where Joseph Rank and Alfred Gelder occupied opposite ends of the block at the time of the 1891 census. At 1 Chestnut Villas, now Annisons & Boddy's undertakers, seven people were recorded in the 1891 census. They were the architect, W, Alfred Gelder, his wife and niece, three children and two domestic servants. At 4 Chestnut Villas, now 371 Holderness Road, thirteen people were listed in the census. They were the miller, Joseph Rank, his wife and her sister, six children, a school governess, a sick nurse, a nursemaid and a servant. Some of them were there as Mrs. Rank had given birth to a baby a month earlier. The two-year old child, Joseph A. Rank, became famous later in life as J. Arthur Rank, the film magnate and head of the Rank Organisation, eventually becoming Lord Rank.
At Holderness House, there were eight residents recorded in the 1891 census. Mrs. Emily Jalland was aged 62. Her unmarried sons, Walter Clay and Gerald William were aged 35 and 30. They were all described as living on their own means. There were also four servants and a footman. Like Queen Victoria, Mrs. Jalland always wore black as a widow and the lifestyle at Holderness House must have been very subdued compared with what it had been like in the 1850s.
Around 1900, when Boswell George Jalland was living at Lambwath Hall, Sutton, and his sister, Emily, had married a Mr. Webster, Holderness House was regarded by some as the seat of Walter Clay Jalland but his mother, as the trustee, really controlled the Estate. For over twenty years, Holderness House had no lodge, and the grounds became overgrown. When small boys went into the grounds to collect conkers, Mrs. Jalland used to chase them away herself. In 1906, the Jalland Trustees applied to the Corporation to construct a road on the north-west side of Holderness Road parallel to Jalland Street. This was agreed to but the road was not immediately constructed. Some land was put up for sale.
Friday, July 8, 2011
Rose Varieties: Roses on Easy Street
"An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." - H. L. Mencken
Although roses do have a reputation as being the "divas" of the flower world -- temperamental, difficult to cultivate, easy to injure, etc. -- some rose varieties are easier to grow than others (see Not Your Mother's Roses).
First, you need to select a rose that will do well in your growing environment. (Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for advice.) It's always easier to work with plants that like the climate and the soil that you've got, rather than spending all of your time watering and fertilizing trying to keep them happy. For example, if you live in Montana and have harsh winters, dry summers and a short growing season, you won't want to grow a rose that's designed to flourish in Florida. That's just not fair to you or the rose.
If you're new to the world of rose gardening, consider making your life a little easier by picking roses that not only do well in your climate, but are known to be "easy-to-grow." Ask more experienced gardeners (see Master Gardeners) what they would recommend, or visit a garden forum online for more information. A little research will go a long way.
Also, consider joining the American Rose Society. A membership will provide you with all kinds of advice and give you access to rose gardeners both locally and nationally. The society also publishes a Handbook for Selecting Roses, which is updated once a year and includes a listing of rose varieties, each with a numerical rating. Based on these ratings some of the best roses in each category are:
Climbers. Democracie, Royal Sunset, Clair Matin, Dublin Bay, New Dawn, Altissimo, and City of York.
Floribundas. Anabell, Simplicity, Orange Morsday, Europeana, Bridal White, Iceberg, and Little Darling.
Grandifloras. Queen Elizabeth, Gold Medal, Pink Parfait, About Face, Prima Donna, Dublin, and Double Delight.
Heritage. Charles de Mills, Apothecary's Rose, Celsiana, Nastarana, Crested Moss, Souvenir d'Alphonse Lavallee, and Souvenir de la Malmaison.
Hybrid Teas. Irish Elegance, Touch of Class, Mister Lincoln, Marijke Koopman, Olympiad, Pristine, and Dainty Bess.
Miniatures. Jean Kenneally, Beauty Secret, Irresistible, Minnie Pearl, Holy Toledo, Giggles, and Gourmet Popcorn.
Shrubs. Dortmund, Eddie's Crimson, Henry Hudson, Apple Jack, Surry, Elveshorn, and Immensee.
I've also included a list of recommended rose varieties by garden designer and author, Barbara Blossom Ashmun. These are all considered "low maintenance" flowers and are relatively easy to grow.
According to Ashmun, rugosas and hybrid musks not only are resistant to common diseases such as black spot, rust and powdery mildew, but are known to bloom repeatedly. She specifically recommends Rosa rugosa, the sea tomato, as well as the six-foot-tall hybrid rugosa 'Hansa,' which has huge, fragrant, purple-pink flowers. Or try rugosa 'Scabrosa' with large single pink flowers.
Most roses require a lot of sun, but many hybrid musks do well in partial shade. Ashmun recommends "Ballerina," with its pale pink blooms reminiscent of the subtle pink tint of ballet shoes or a ballerina's tutu, "Felicia," which has silvery pink flowers and the white "Moonlight." "Mozart," a hybrid musk rose is a "looker," but is also reputedly easy to grow.
Finally, experiment and record the results. See what roses work for you. Which are easiest to grow and flourish in your garden? Which bloom the most often? Also, figure out what species you like the best whether it's because of the rose's fragrance, its bloom, it's easy to grow or for any combination of reasons.
Although roses do have a reputation as being the "divas" of the flower world -- temperamental, difficult to cultivate, easy to injure, etc. -- some rose varieties are easier to grow than others (see Not Your Mother's Roses).
First, you need to select a rose that will do well in your growing environment. (Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for advice.) It's always easier to work with plants that like the climate and the soil that you've got, rather than spending all of your time watering and fertilizing trying to keep them happy. For example, if you live in Montana and have harsh winters, dry summers and a short growing season, you won't want to grow a rose that's designed to flourish in Florida. That's just not fair to you or the rose.
If you're new to the world of rose gardening, consider making your life a little easier by picking roses that not only do well in your climate, but are known to be "easy-to-grow." Ask more experienced gardeners (see Master Gardeners) what they would recommend, or visit a garden forum online for more information. A little research will go a long way.
Also, consider joining the American Rose Society. A membership will provide you with all kinds of advice and give you access to rose gardeners both locally and nationally. The society also publishes a Handbook for Selecting Roses, which is updated once a year and includes a listing of rose varieties, each with a numerical rating. Based on these ratings some of the best roses in each category are:
Climbers. Democracie, Royal Sunset, Clair Matin, Dublin Bay, New Dawn, Altissimo, and City of York.
Floribundas. Anabell, Simplicity, Orange Morsday, Europeana, Bridal White, Iceberg, and Little Darling.
Grandifloras. Queen Elizabeth, Gold Medal, Pink Parfait, About Face, Prima Donna, Dublin, and Double Delight.
Heritage. Charles de Mills, Apothecary's Rose, Celsiana, Nastarana, Crested Moss, Souvenir d'Alphonse Lavallee, and Souvenir de la Malmaison.
Hybrid Teas. Irish Elegance, Touch of Class, Mister Lincoln, Marijke Koopman, Olympiad, Pristine, and Dainty Bess.
Miniatures. Jean Kenneally, Beauty Secret, Irresistible, Minnie Pearl, Holy Toledo, Giggles, and Gourmet Popcorn.
Shrubs. Dortmund, Eddie's Crimson, Henry Hudson, Apple Jack, Surry, Elveshorn, and Immensee.
I've also included a list of recommended rose varieties by garden designer and author, Barbara Blossom Ashmun. These are all considered "low maintenance" flowers and are relatively easy to grow.
According to Ashmun, rugosas and hybrid musks not only are resistant to common diseases such as black spot, rust and powdery mildew, but are known to bloom repeatedly. She specifically recommends Rosa rugosa, the sea tomato, as well as the six-foot-tall hybrid rugosa 'Hansa,' which has huge, fragrant, purple-pink flowers. Or try rugosa 'Scabrosa' with large single pink flowers.
Most roses require a lot of sun, but many hybrid musks do well in partial shade. Ashmun recommends "Ballerina," with its pale pink blooms reminiscent of the subtle pink tint of ballet shoes or a ballerina's tutu, "Felicia," which has silvery pink flowers and the white "Moonlight." "Mozart," a hybrid musk rose is a "looker," but is also reputedly easy to grow.
Finally, experiment and record the results. See what roses work for you. Which are easiest to grow and flourish in your garden? Which bloom the most often? Also, figure out what species you like the best whether it's because of the rose's fragrance, its bloom, it's easy to grow or for any combination of reasons.
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Rose Problems & Prevention
"A thorn defends the rose, harming only those who would steal the blossom" - Chinese Proverb
You're not the only one who loves roses. Pests and disease adore them as well. I don't have the space (or the time!) to devote to each and every garden pest that may attack, but here I have listed several of the more common ones, as well as what to do about them. If you're having problems diagnosing what the problem is, enlist the aid of your local agricultural extension agent or a friendly rosarian. You can also purchase products for organic pest control here.
Always start with the least harmful method of control and only "escalate" if you're not getting results. Also, weigh the damage of the infestation against how much time and money you want to spend. Strive for a balance that will create the healthiest rose bushes at the lowest cost to you and the environment.
Finally, remember to keep a garden journal about your pest control adventures. Documenting what you've done, will help you monitor results and can help you learn what works and what doesn't - given your plants, your garden and your local climate.
Insects
Spider Mites. Common throughout the United States, many species of spider mites attack roses. Found in colonies, mostly on the undersides of leaves, they feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking out the juices. Signs of mite infestation include yellowed, dry looking leaves with white feeding marks (small dots). Sometimes you'll notice silvery webbing on the leaves and stems. Mites are tiny (1/50 inch) so you probably won't see them -- just the damage that they are causing. In extreme cases, your rose bushes will lose their leaves. Use dormant oil or lime sulfur to eradicate the mites, but be careful to apply only during the roses' dormant stage. During the growing season, spray insecticidal soap mixed with pyrethrin.
Rose Bud Borers. There are actually two types of borers. Rose curculios are about 1/4 inch in size, bright red with black beaks. Rose leaf beetles are much smaller -- about 1/8 inch -- and are shiny blue or green. They both damage roses the same way: by boring into the flower buds and preventing the buds from blooming. The least invasive way to get rid of borers is to pick them by hand, as well as by removing and destroying infected buds. To reduce their numbers and prevent them from spreading to other plants, spray insecticidal soap mixed with pyrethrin.
Rose Chafers. Commonly found east of the Rocky Mountains, these insects chew large, irregular holes in rose blossoms. Like the borers, the least-toxic solution is to hand pick rose chafers off your roses, but you can also try using a botanical insecticide to knock down their numbers. Just remember to add a little horticultural oil to the insecticide. That way it will stick to the leaves and not get washed away by rain or watering. The organic insecticides pyrethrum (made from chrysanthemum flowers) and rotenone are good choices.
Leafcutter Bees. As their name suggests, leafcutter bees (smaller and darker than a honey bee) cut precise round or oval holes from the sides of plant leaves, which are used to form nest cells. In roses, more serious problems can occur when they bore into recently pruned stems and canes, causing wilt. To reduce damage caused by leafcutter bees, prune out the injured tips several inches below the damaged area and seal the cut with grating wax or putty.
Japanese Beetles. Found in most states east of the Mississippi River (and some isolated spots in California, Oregon, and Wisconsin), Japanese beetles (1/2 inch) are metallic green with copper-colored wing covers. Adults are very destructive and chew small holes in both the leaves and flowers of rose bushes. Often feeding in groups, the beetles will start on the upper part of a plant and work downward. If detected, apply milky spore to lawns to attack grubs (larvae) and spray organic insecticides as needed. Also, in the early morning or evening, when beetles are less active, shake them from plants onto tarps and drop them into a bucket of soapy water.
Diseases
Most of the common rose diseases are fungal in nature. You can nip that problem in the bud by ensuring good air flow for your plants. That means providing plenty of room between roses, ideally five feet apart from each other. Overcrowding means excessive moisture and gives fungal spores the opportunity they've been waiting for.
Botrytis. A fungal disease that attacks leaves and canes, and often prevents blooms from opening. Buds and flowers infected with botrytis will appear grayish-brown and shriveled. Prune and destroy diseased plant parts. Apply micronized sulfur to prevent further damage, and provide plenty of air circulation. Also, be sure to keep the area under the plant clean to prevent reoccurrence. Roses under stress are highly susceptible to this disease.
Powdery Mildew. If the leaves of your rose plants look like they've been treated to an after-bath dousing of talcum powder, chances are they've fallen prey to powdery mildew. Severe infection will cause leaves to yellow or brown and can disfigured shoots and flowers. To reduce the chances of powdery mildew, be sure to keep the ground under rose bushes clean and try to increase air circulation. Water only in the morning hours to avoid moisture build up. To treat powdery mildew, try this home made remedy: 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1/2 teaspoon oil and one quart of warm water. Mix and then apply by spray bottle. Sulfur dusts will also control powdery mildew.
Black Spot. A fungal disease that will cover your rose plants in...well, black spots! One of the most common plant diseases affecting roses, black spot (PDF format) can be difficult to control and may also increase the likelihood of winter injury. Spores lay dormant under rose plants throughout the winter and are spread to healthy leaves by splashing water. Infection most often occurs in areas of high humidity and rainfall. Like most fungal diseases, the key to getting rid of black spot is to keep the area under your roses as clean as possible. Remove and destroy any fallen debris or foliage and mulch often. Make sure your roses have proper air circulation and water from below, if at all possible. Apply organic fungicides, like sulfur on a weekly basis.
Canker. Appearing as dead or discolored areas on rose canes, this fungal disease can enter healthy plants through pruning wounds and is spread by splashing water, insects and even dirty tools! If you suspect that your plants are infected with rose canker, do not fertilize or prune as this will stimulate new growth, which is most susceptible to this disease. As with other fungal diseases, keep your plants and the area around them clean and raked up. Get rid of infected plant parts as soon as possible. If necessary, apply copper-based fungicides to establish control.
You're not the only one who loves roses. Pests and disease adore them as well. I don't have the space (or the time!) to devote to each and every garden pest that may attack, but here I have listed several of the more common ones, as well as what to do about them. If you're having problems diagnosing what the problem is, enlist the aid of your local agricultural extension agent or a friendly rosarian. You can also purchase products for organic pest control here.
Always start with the least harmful method of control and only "escalate" if you're not getting results. Also, weigh the damage of the infestation against how much time and money you want to spend. Strive for a balance that will create the healthiest rose bushes at the lowest cost to you and the environment.
Finally, remember to keep a garden journal about your pest control adventures. Documenting what you've done, will help you monitor results and can help you learn what works and what doesn't - given your plants, your garden and your local climate.
Insects
Spider Mites. Common throughout the United States, many species of spider mites attack roses. Found in colonies, mostly on the undersides of leaves, they feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking out the juices. Signs of mite infestation include yellowed, dry looking leaves with white feeding marks (small dots). Sometimes you'll notice silvery webbing on the leaves and stems. Mites are tiny (1/50 inch) so you probably won't see them -- just the damage that they are causing. In extreme cases, your rose bushes will lose their leaves. Use dormant oil or lime sulfur to eradicate the mites, but be careful to apply only during the roses' dormant stage. During the growing season, spray insecticidal soap mixed with pyrethrin.
Rose Bud Borers. There are actually two types of borers. Rose curculios are about 1/4 inch in size, bright red with black beaks. Rose leaf beetles are much smaller -- about 1/8 inch -- and are shiny blue or green. They both damage roses the same way: by boring into the flower buds and preventing the buds from blooming. The least invasive way to get rid of borers is to pick them by hand, as well as by removing and destroying infected buds. To reduce their numbers and prevent them from spreading to other plants, spray insecticidal soap mixed with pyrethrin.
Rose Chafers. Commonly found east of the Rocky Mountains, these insects chew large, irregular holes in rose blossoms. Like the borers, the least-toxic solution is to hand pick rose chafers off your roses, but you can also try using a botanical insecticide to knock down their numbers. Just remember to add a little horticultural oil to the insecticide. That way it will stick to the leaves and not get washed away by rain or watering. The organic insecticides pyrethrum (made from chrysanthemum flowers) and rotenone are good choices.
Leafcutter Bees. As their name suggests, leafcutter bees (smaller and darker than a honey bee) cut precise round or oval holes from the sides of plant leaves, which are used to form nest cells. In roses, more serious problems can occur when they bore into recently pruned stems and canes, causing wilt. To reduce damage caused by leafcutter bees, prune out the injured tips several inches below the damaged area and seal the cut with grating wax or putty.
Japanese Beetles. Found in most states east of the Mississippi River (and some isolated spots in California, Oregon, and Wisconsin), Japanese beetles (1/2 inch) are metallic green with copper-colored wing covers. Adults are very destructive and chew small holes in both the leaves and flowers of rose bushes. Often feeding in groups, the beetles will start on the upper part of a plant and work downward. If detected, apply milky spore to lawns to attack grubs (larvae) and spray organic insecticides as needed. Also, in the early morning or evening, when beetles are less active, shake them from plants onto tarps and drop them into a bucket of soapy water.
Diseases
Most of the common rose diseases are fungal in nature. You can nip that problem in the bud by ensuring good air flow for your plants. That means providing plenty of room between roses, ideally five feet apart from each other. Overcrowding means excessive moisture and gives fungal spores the opportunity they've been waiting for.
Botrytis. A fungal disease that attacks leaves and canes, and often prevents blooms from opening. Buds and flowers infected with botrytis will appear grayish-brown and shriveled. Prune and destroy diseased plant parts. Apply micronized sulfur to prevent further damage, and provide plenty of air circulation. Also, be sure to keep the area under the plant clean to prevent reoccurrence. Roses under stress are highly susceptible to this disease.
Powdery Mildew. If the leaves of your rose plants look like they've been treated to an after-bath dousing of talcum powder, chances are they've fallen prey to powdery mildew. Severe infection will cause leaves to yellow or brown and can disfigured shoots and flowers. To reduce the chances of powdery mildew, be sure to keep the ground under rose bushes clean and try to increase air circulation. Water only in the morning hours to avoid moisture build up. To treat powdery mildew, try this home made remedy: 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1/2 teaspoon oil and one quart of warm water. Mix and then apply by spray bottle. Sulfur dusts will also control powdery mildew.
Black Spot. A fungal disease that will cover your rose plants in...well, black spots! One of the most common plant diseases affecting roses, black spot (PDF format) can be difficult to control and may also increase the likelihood of winter injury. Spores lay dormant under rose plants throughout the winter and are spread to healthy leaves by splashing water. Infection most often occurs in areas of high humidity and rainfall. Like most fungal diseases, the key to getting rid of black spot is to keep the area under your roses as clean as possible. Remove and destroy any fallen debris or foliage and mulch often. Make sure your roses have proper air circulation and water from below, if at all possible. Apply organic fungicides, like sulfur on a weekly basis.
Canker. Appearing as dead or discolored areas on rose canes, this fungal disease can enter healthy plants through pruning wounds and is spread by splashing water, insects and even dirty tools! If you suspect that your plants are infected with rose canker, do not fertilize or prune as this will stimulate new growth, which is most susceptible to this disease. As with other fungal diseases, keep your plants and the area around them clean and raked up. Get rid of infected plant parts as soon as possible. If necessary, apply copper-based fungicides to establish control.
Friday, July 1, 2011
How to Grow and Care for Aloe Vera Plants
There are over 250 species of Aloes in the world, mostly native to Africa. They range in size from little one inch miniatures to massive plant colonies consisting of hundreds of 2 foot diameter plants.
Although most Aloes have some medicinal or commercial value, the most commonly known is the Aloe barbadensis...
better known as the Aloe Vera.
All Aloes are semi tropical succulent plants, and may only be grown outdoors in areas where there is no chance of freezing (USDA zones 10-11). However, they make excellent house plants when they are given sufficient light. Container grown Aloe plants benefit from spending their summer outdoors. Older specimens may even bloom, producing a tall stock covered with bright colored coral flowers.
The nectar from Aloe flowers is a favorite food for hummingbirds!
Hank will return you to the Garden Helper
Growing Requirements for Aloes
Because Aloe Vera plants are very succulent and consist of 95% water, they are extremely frost tender. If they are grown outdoors in warm climates, they should be planted in full sun, or light shade. The soil should be moderately fertile, and fast draining. Established plants will survive a drought quite well, but for the benefit of the plant, water should be provided.
Because of their popularity, Aloe vera plants are available at almost every garden shop or nursery. Unless you live in area with a very mild climate, it's best to leave your Aloe plant in the pot and place it near a window that gets a lot of sun. You can move the pot outdoors during the summer months.
Aloe Vera is a succulent, and as such, stores a large quantity of water within its leaves and root system. During the winter months, the plant will become somewhat dormant, and utilize very little moisture. During this period watering should be minimal. Allow the soil to become completely dry before giving the plant a cup or two of water.
During the summer months, the soil should be completely soaked, but then be allowed to dry again before re-watering.
Aloes have a shallow, spreading root system so when it is time to repot choose a wide planter, rather than a deep one. Use a planter with a drainage hole, or provide a 1-2 inch layer of gravel in the bottom of the pot to ensure adequate drainage. Use a good commercial potting mix with extra perlite, granite grit, or coarse sand added. You may also use a packaged 'cacti mix' soil.
Fertilize yearly, in the spring with half strength, bloom type fertilizer (10-40-10).
Aloe Vera plants are propagated by removing the offsets which are produced around the base of mature plants, when they are a couple inches tall (or larger). They can also be grown from seed.
The Medicinal Properties of Aloe Vera
The medicinal properties of Aloe vera have been known and recorded since biblical times. It has been used for a variety of ailments, and as an ointment for burns, cuts, and rashes, as well as an ingredient in various beauty preparations.
The sap of the Aloe is a thick, mucilaginous gel. It is this gel which is used medicinally. The outer skin has essentially no value, but because it is commercially easier and less expensive to utilize the entire leaf, 'whole leaf' Aloe juice has been hyped as the 'best'. This is not the case.
Using Aloe Vera Gel
As to the claims of the medicinal properties of the Aloe plant, I can only speak from my personal experience. I have kept an Aloe plant around for years, primarily for burns.
In case of burns, an immediate application of fresh gel has relieved much of the pain, and prevented blistering, many times.
I also found it to be quite effective to relieve itching from stings, bites and various 'stinging' plants, such as poison ivy.
Aloe gel is also good for the same problems when they are encountered by your pets.
When you need to use it medicinally, just remove a lower leaf from the plant, slice it open, and apply the gel on the affected area.
Although most Aloes have some medicinal or commercial value, the most commonly known is the Aloe barbadensis...
better known as the Aloe Vera.
All Aloes are semi tropical succulent plants, and may only be grown outdoors in areas where there is no chance of freezing (USDA zones 10-11). However, they make excellent house plants when they are given sufficient light. Container grown Aloe plants benefit from spending their summer outdoors. Older specimens may even bloom, producing a tall stock covered with bright colored coral flowers.
The nectar from Aloe flowers is a favorite food for hummingbirds!
Hank will return you to the Garden Helper
Growing Requirements for Aloes
Because Aloe Vera plants are very succulent and consist of 95% water, they are extremely frost tender. If they are grown outdoors in warm climates, they should be planted in full sun, or light shade. The soil should be moderately fertile, and fast draining. Established plants will survive a drought quite well, but for the benefit of the plant, water should be provided.
Because of their popularity, Aloe vera plants are available at almost every garden shop or nursery. Unless you live in area with a very mild climate, it's best to leave your Aloe plant in the pot and place it near a window that gets a lot of sun. You can move the pot outdoors during the summer months.
Aloe Vera is a succulent, and as such, stores a large quantity of water within its leaves and root system. During the winter months, the plant will become somewhat dormant, and utilize very little moisture. During this period watering should be minimal. Allow the soil to become completely dry before giving the plant a cup or two of water.
During the summer months, the soil should be completely soaked, but then be allowed to dry again before re-watering.
Aloes have a shallow, spreading root system so when it is time to repot choose a wide planter, rather than a deep one. Use a planter with a drainage hole, or provide a 1-2 inch layer of gravel in the bottom of the pot to ensure adequate drainage. Use a good commercial potting mix with extra perlite, granite grit, or coarse sand added. You may also use a packaged 'cacti mix' soil.
Fertilize yearly, in the spring with half strength, bloom type fertilizer (10-40-10).
Aloe Vera plants are propagated by removing the offsets which are produced around the base of mature plants, when they are a couple inches tall (or larger). They can also be grown from seed.
The Medicinal Properties of Aloe Vera
The medicinal properties of Aloe vera have been known and recorded since biblical times. It has been used for a variety of ailments, and as an ointment for burns, cuts, and rashes, as well as an ingredient in various beauty preparations.
The sap of the Aloe is a thick, mucilaginous gel. It is this gel which is used medicinally. The outer skin has essentially no value, but because it is commercially easier and less expensive to utilize the entire leaf, 'whole leaf' Aloe juice has been hyped as the 'best'. This is not the case.
Using Aloe Vera Gel
As to the claims of the medicinal properties of the Aloe plant, I can only speak from my personal experience. I have kept an Aloe plant around for years, primarily for burns.
In case of burns, an immediate application of fresh gel has relieved much of the pain, and prevented blistering, many times.
I also found it to be quite effective to relieve itching from stings, bites and various 'stinging' plants, such as poison ivy.
Aloe gel is also good for the same problems when they are encountered by your pets.
When you need to use it medicinally, just remove a lower leaf from the plant, slice it open, and apply the gel on the affected area.
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